tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-75531724213813591372024-03-19T03:49:05.470+01:00petit main sauvageLaurianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16602295642057814667noreply@blogger.comBlogger840125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7553172421381359137.post-60626464009478580902020-07-23T20:17:00.000+02:002020-07-23T20:17:12.363+02:00my subtraction pattern and some answers<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">In the previous post, I promised to show you what the "pattern" for my dress looks like. And here it is (as usual, the drawing is not to scale):</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">As you can see, the pattern is perfectly symmetrical. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I started with two pieces of fabric which were 140 cm wide and 3 meters long.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I used my favorite shirtwaist bodice in which all the dart width at the back has been converted into those pleats under the back yoke. On the front bodice, I combined the waist and bust darts into a single French dart. The front bodice piece is drafted to extend 2 cm beyond center front, to create an overlap for the button closure. In the subtraction pattern, left and right front bodice are placed edge tot edge (with added seam allowance, of course) and then cut. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">To make that work, I added extra width to the circle just below the waistline (not in the picture). 6 cm to be precise, the 2 cm for the overlap and 1 cm seam allowance, both times 2. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I managed to cut out the facing pieces from the cut-out fabric around the bodice but used an extra bit of fabric (in fact, the 40 cm bit I cut off at the bottom) for the collar and sleeves.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">As you can see, I cut out the bodice pieces with sharp angles to the "side seam". In the small scale dresses, I preferred the look of that. Waist definition. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">It did mean I had to treat those points with care. I fused small circles of lightweight fusible interfacing to them, then sewed the seams and cut to the seamline. At least, that is what I did on the right side. On the left, I put in an invisible zipper. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">When I first tried the dress on, I was disappointed to find the bottom loop around my shins. I considered partially sewing it to the waistline but I didn't do that in the end. Instead, when I put the dress on, I make sure my body passes through that loop first and then through the "top" one. The top loop can't sag down because it is connected to the front waistline. So, it keeps up the other one between waist and hip. This adds to the skirt volume at the sides, which I really like.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">To me, this dress is much more wearable than my first attempt (the brown-and-stripes one in <a href="http://petitmainsauvage.blogspot.com/2020/04/substraction-cutting.html" target="_blank">this post</a>), which was more of a "normal" subtraction cut dress. In fact, this one goes a bit against the spirit of the subtraction cutting technique. I used small scale experiments to take out the risk of experimentation and I made the bodice using normal pattern making techniques. I is what works for me though.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I think I will enjoy wearing this dress although the amount for fabric means it is not really an every day kind of thing. I would also like to continue experimenting with this technique and I think I will go on to do so in my way, with scale experiments and added normal pattern making. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span>Laurianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16602295642057814667noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7553172421381359137.post-39699058980042154552020-07-08T09:54:00.002+02:002020-07-08T09:54:38.763+02:00The subtraction cut dress!<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">A bit of a disclaimer: these pictures aren't great, to say the least. </span><div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">It turned out I didn't have time to have E take pictures of me wearing the subtraction cut dress last weekend, so I did it myself with the camera on self-timer yesterday. I used to do that a lot but I'm out of practice and out of patience with the process and it shows. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">However, I didn't want to keep you waiting for a dress I've been talking about for a while. I may try and get some better pictures next weekend and will certainly post more about the pattern and construction of the dress later this week.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The fabrics I use were chambray with a flower silhouette print and linen. Fairly stiff fabrics, which give volume where they are gathered up. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Combined with my pattern choices, that gave the dress a silhouette which reminds me slightly of Rococo dresses worn over panniers: with volume jutting out sharply at the side waistline. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The back is a bit plain but I don't really mind.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I'm really glad I decided to cut off those 40 cm at the bottom. the fact that legs and feet are visible at the front and side gives the dress a sense of lightness and fun that just wasn't there when it was floor-length. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">And obviously, I used a bodice shape I know and love.</span></div>
Laurianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16602295642057814667noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7553172421381359137.post-76527417392946296212020-07-03T08:09:00.001+02:002020-07-03T08:09:11.198+02:00Distracted<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">To be honest, I finished my subtraction cut dress a couple of days after the previous post. And I'm happy with it. I also realized I would have to pose for pictures to really show you what it's like.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">But then there were some distractions: It was announced that sports facilities in the Netherlands would re-open on 1 July (not for contact sports of course). This was great news but it also meant more work. My local climbing gym had used the past months to clean its walls so it needed a lot of new routes. And I'm a route setter there.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The person in this picture isn't me. In fact, I'm sure she's grateful to me because I set the route she is using to get up the wall. Route setting on toprope is a lot less tiring when there's an easy route nearby which you can use...</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Then, we had a little heat wave.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">And then, last weekend, I went climbing in Belgium with a small group of people for the first time since the lockdown started.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">It was great to be out on the rock again and the weather was nice too. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">So, I think I will be able to get some pictures of the new dress on Sunday...</span>Laurianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16602295642057814667noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7553172421381359137.post-19207902457115120502020-06-15T21:20:00.001+02:002020-06-15T21:20:55.655+02:00Subtraction cutting again!<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">After my very simple dress, I decided to change gears and make something more complicated. I didn't make all those tiny dresses for nothing after all...</span><div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The design I used as a starting point is the second one from <a href="http://petitmainsauvage.blogspot.com/2020/05/little-experiments-in-subtraction.html" target="_blank">this post</a>. In many ways, it is the simplest one I tried and probably the least typical for the technique. But that also makes it the most likely one with which to get a wearable result for what is really still just me trying it out. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Most of the subtraction cut dresses you will find online have very simple, loose fitting sleeveless tops. I didn't really want that and I have cut the same bodice as the one I used for my recent dress. It will have buttons from the waist up and a side zipper.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Because I got the scale of the bodice wrong on the tiny dress, I didn't have quite as much length to cut holes for the skirt as it seemed in small scale. When I was marking the circles out for cutting, I realized that the bottom set on the front of the dress would end up too close to the hemline. So, I didn't cut those holes. (I'll make a proper pattern lay-out drawing when I post about the finished dress)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">If you read about subtraction cutting, some people who tried it are very enthusiastic about how quick this technique is. If you read that, have a good look at the pictures. Many of those quick dresses are no more than muslins with raw edges at the armholes and neckline and over-long, unhemmed skirts spread on the floor. In my book, those are not finished dresses. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Making it a nicely finished dress doesn't require any special skills but it does mean constantly dealing with quite a lot of fabric around the sewing machine. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">So far, I have put the bodice together but it still needs sleeves and a collar. I have also sewn up those holes.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The skirt doesn't have anywhere near the volume of that in the tiny dress (but a bit more than it seems on the dummy).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The strange thing I noticed when I tried it on was this:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The hole from the back is all the way down at my ankles. Deeply unpractical and it doesn't really do anything for the shape of the skirt. I tried connecting it to the top one at center front and that seems to work well. It creates that bustle-effect at the back which attracted me in the tiny dress (you can kind of see it in the side views but not really well enough. The lighting doesn't help. I'm sorry about that but I didn't have much time to take pictures)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The skirt is also too long. On the dummy, it almost looks like I could make that second set of holes after all but when I wore the dress, I really didn't think so. What I think I'll do is simply cut off about 40 cm at the bottom and then hem it. Unlike on the first dress I tried, the bottom edge of this one doesn't cross extra seams. That should mean I end</span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"> up with a hi-low effect because the bustle hangs down to about the ankles. And the cut-off length will give me the extra fabric I need for the sleeves. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I'll keep you posted on the progress!</span></div>
Laurianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16602295642057814667noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7553172421381359137.post-56878781963932322422020-06-11T21:48:00.002+02:002020-06-11T21:48:39.033+02:00Super-simple dress<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Here's another one I made a couple of weeks ago. A very simple t-shirt-dress in a nice cotton jersey. </span><div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwTZj01cvy25KiyILnB3cy2LGADzF0cycseIx-GpWAcdi4Xs9ymylo3tMOuaq5qIPZgQwJfhO0DxnUMC_CM9VeWfnunbOBsvT8xiUj1GEDRx4XMI9-G7PfIoU7IOib8_BGDrxT6w31T7Ky/s1600/voor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwTZj01cvy25KiyILnB3cy2LGADzF0cycseIx-GpWAcdi4Xs9ymylo3tMOuaq5qIPZgQwJfhO0DxnUMC_CM9VeWfnunbOBsvT8xiUj1GEDRx4XMI9-G7PfIoU7IOib8_BGDrxT6w31T7Ky/s400/voor.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJrfIClqrCaFI-GbVjmgakLd2SckIMK8uHnQrY5nRsy8mx9cGvxlX5w-rc4T2uDfp_EsrOZhQQc80_Ao4WR4s6MncOnleS-7o4t3kB9pLs60LunnGL05GiXcOyvphw_8V3f-qlMjtMBFht/s1600/achter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJrfIClqrCaFI-GbVjmgakLd2SckIMK8uHnQrY5nRsy8mx9cGvxlX5w-rc4T2uDfp_EsrOZhQQc80_Ao4WR4s6MncOnleS-7o4t3kB9pLs60LunnGL05GiXcOyvphw_8V3f-qlMjtMBFht/s400/achter.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I used the same old trick again to jazz it up a bit: I used a picture of a small bird in flight traced the lines to make a print on the dress. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Very easy to make but I'm sure I will wear it a lot.</span></div>
Laurianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16602295642057814667noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7553172421381359137.post-14744781477458268082020-06-03T20:35:00.001+02:002020-06-03T20:36:59.302+02:00The action back<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Fitted bodices can really limit your range of movement. Of course, that can be down to a fitting issue but not necessarily. Some styles are just inherently restrictive (just ask anyone in a tailored jacket to hold out his/her arms out to the side at a right angle to the body). Perfect, individualized fitting can make the most of any style but that is a difficult job (one I should try and tackle once I'm fairly certain my shoulders will stay the same shape for a while).</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Styles which allow for a great range of movement are traditionally wider and more casual in look. I say traditionally because a lot of that job is done nowadays by elastane. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigna_puSB1Q3QMSc6SmhgyfMEb9ngIkAejq2BDetQjCLNfyofdy7HFNqTibHzSZ-yzY8q9uqhLn4Q1qK5d_TTwEhZVE3toK39swSGkZ08hoiP3xNaD5HGDss2d20aDO8unWniDct8UE4ci/s1600/DSC_0392.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigna_puSB1Q3QMSc6SmhgyfMEb9ngIkAejq2BDetQjCLNfyofdy7HFNqTibHzSZ-yzY8q9uqhLn4Q1qK5d_TTwEhZVE3toK39swSGkZ08hoiP3xNaD5HGDss2d20aDO8unWniDct8UE4ci/s400/DSC_0392.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The pattern adjustment I used for my dress and jumpsuit is intended for fabrics without stretch. In fact, it is kind of like the "action back" on some casual jackets (for men as well as for women) from the 1940's. The adjustment adds room for movement but confines it in the general, fitted shape of the design.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">It is easy to make using a sloper or a tried-and-tested pattern for a fitted bodice with sleeves (as ever, my drawings are not to scale) </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWfM4yhQQPOeFC06pZCLvtsHax0xsXpI4uL16Bki8txJudUhJC_qRnLmLEeDU0KH6PouQ7QwlCzOUeq-txcFAcJ56hLOMkB9Y_15GEwTMNIZnfICt7SEwPNNJqayl090Nz37NVlnYyumbK/s1600/Schermafbeelding+2020-06-03+om+19.37.18.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="530" data-original-width="405" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWfM4yhQQPOeFC06pZCLvtsHax0xsXpI4uL16Bki8txJudUhJC_qRnLmLEeDU0KH6PouQ7QwlCzOUeq-txcFAcJ56hLOMkB9Y_15GEwTMNIZnfICt7SEwPNNJqayl090Nz37NVlnYyumbK/s400/Schermafbeelding+2020-06-03+om+19.37.18.png" width="305" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Your pattern will need a waist seam to make this adjustment possible. If your sloper doesn't have a waist seam, just cut it at the waistline.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfhBFWFTN9jCvjrROKuJdrx8MF0XzlJ2I0ILrRogcV7AylHlNtjlznDGq7eQ43nO2ETpHq2zTV05Jw9JNSBPHIy5KeCNyP2VZct0m_S6YEb5H6C90feavV_6zMBHP1dQg2w1xfy9Y-_c37/s1600/Schermafbeelding+2020-06-03+om+19.38.16.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="497" data-original-width="358" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfhBFWFTN9jCvjrROKuJdrx8MF0XzlJ2I0ILrRogcV7AylHlNtjlznDGq7eQ43nO2ETpHq2zTV05Jw9JNSBPHIy5KeCNyP2VZct0m_S6YEb5H6C90feavV_6zMBHP1dQg2w1xfy9Y-_c37/s400/Schermafbeelding+2020-06-03+om+19.38.16.png" width="287" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Draw a line for the back yoke. My sloper has fairly long shoulder darts so my line crosses the shoulder dart. The line should be between a third and half the height of the arm scye when measured from the top.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht-JEljFT74VKwmVi9IKtz7zhF3Kh-2WGc2LtFvtAd0hxgBRp0PlmEIBqAyBOEWmxJ8uj2zQlvJMIvcnTznMugoSNRmmEC0q-SRMhYSx84X6Y_n0go8dj7kTcPE5bS1teAWeBN6XSyEOcH/s1600/Schermafbeelding+2020-06-03+om+19.40.16.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="519" data-original-width="665" height="311" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht-JEljFT74VKwmVi9IKtz7zhF3Kh-2WGc2LtFvtAd0hxgBRp0PlmEIBqAyBOEWmxJ8uj2zQlvJMIvcnTznMugoSNRmmEC0q-SRMhYSx84X6Y_n0go8dj7kTcPE5bS1teAWeBN6XSyEOcH/s400/Schermafbeelding+2020-06-03+om+19.40.16.png" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Trace the yoke pieces fit them together. Here you can see that my drawing isn't very good. There shouldn't be a big dent in the shoulder line (there will probably be a small one. If there is, just keep it).</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-N1IKDLfte7cou5HuZytpCcYVnSCw85_nHhwePbct4KeiF8xTkGcW5md8sxQ4HKhDoa8_MiWqBf77Qjkx9aytgphRr_nuiMHi7rfOlPgmyH6fU4XMQrwszI6RqYB6g-2jBUGzmw0iqlB_/s1600/Schermafbeelding+2020-06-03+om+19.41.14.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="239" data-original-width="304" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-N1IKDLfte7cou5HuZytpCcYVnSCw85_nHhwePbct4KeiF8xTkGcW5md8sxQ4HKhDoa8_MiWqBf77Qjkx9aytgphRr_nuiMHi7rfOlPgmyH6fU4XMQrwszI6RqYB6g-2jBUGzmw0iqlB_/s1600/Schermafbeelding+2020-06-03+om+19.41.14.png" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Clean up the shape of the yoke. It will end up with a slightly curved bottom edge. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivtoDMrnoDzIj7AZHKsQgHawsqUA5wJT8FxZA6L-l-GcjXnQh4wqSbkXFyZMYgke0L2g_qyWmaTUgmp1cRpvt8irSs-juyUMkxzvUZIQmt3qzgu8wj38tFTX56Cxl2p05ck_8bsL3QEgOc/s1600/Schermafbeelding+2020-06-03+om+19.42.26.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="497" data-original-width="381" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivtoDMrnoDzIj7AZHKsQgHawsqUA5wJT8FxZA6L-l-GcjXnQh4wqSbkXFyZMYgke0L2g_qyWmaTUgmp1cRpvt8irSs-juyUMkxzvUZIQmt3qzgu8wj38tFTX56Cxl2p05ck_8bsL3QEgOc/s400/Schermafbeelding+2020-06-03+om+19.42.26.png" width="306" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Draw lines from the tops of the waist darts (or dart, if the pattern you are using has only one) to the bottom of the shoulder dart. If you had a shorter shoulder dart, draw the lines to the point on the yoke line under were it ends.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgec7svxoh9sADR1M0SUdr8GhUsUxan35JxD24Dtp0OdZrsezXBYD2qev_SNeu06oav8h3iJ0_Fd-jznIeU6jTg0jBAb45gaR01KweWvKgeJ1Qg5EJnqc6jfBtTmyFXJVfHaB9n9mIxTJ72/s1600/Schermafbeelding+2020-06-03+om+19.46.08.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="388" data-original-width="340" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgec7svxoh9sADR1M0SUdr8GhUsUxan35JxD24Dtp0OdZrsezXBYD2qev_SNeu06oav8h3iJ0_Fd-jznIeU6jTg0jBAb45gaR01KweWvKgeJ1Qg5EJnqc6jfBtTmyFXJVfHaB9n9mIxTJ72/s400/Schermafbeelding+2020-06-03+om+19.46.08.png" width="350" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Cut the lines and close the darts. This will transfer all the width from the darts to that one point on the yoke.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuHrwEgZ-yqQBBH215uadUGz4q0DC8iDwwZ5DuYat2N6SNaZXOuhZOTLrwxOmKYsT06nmfgB1rNGVA7uFrGqBC2eKAF15K5rvI3Mux5Ez3tMNNEzCQVRoeb6aWMORAwmmHmdtjBRxEZagr/s1600/Schermafbeelding+2020-06-03+om+19.48.04.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="386" data-original-width="337" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuHrwEgZ-yqQBBH215uadUGz4q0DC8iDwwZ5DuYat2N6SNaZXOuhZOTLrwxOmKYsT06nmfgB1rNGVA7uFrGqBC2eKAF15K5rvI3Mux5Ez3tMNNEzCQVRoeb6aWMORAwmmHmdtjBRxEZagr/s400/Schermafbeelding+2020-06-03+om+19.48.04.png" width="348" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Mark the edges of the pleat.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Add seam allowance to the pattern pieces if you like. Both pieces should be cut with center back on the fold. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Fold the pleats closed before sewing the lower bodice to the yoke.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I usually cut the yoke piece twice. I use one as a lining and sew the yoke seam and shoulder seams so that all seam allowances will be encased between outside and lining. </span>Laurianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16602295642057814667noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7553172421381359137.post-87610542732178489812020-06-01T20:18:00.003+02:002020-06-01T20:18:52.677+02:00Jumpsuit time!<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Here is a new item of clothing I couldn't even try and photograph on the dummy: I have made another jumpsuit!</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC2O6T2Gg_5gmzAG425VQTyxJECsdbQEsft6NpPz6nVwelurTV5G95FnTEESijRmrpiQ4huOrj_wtfdU9e4UddhigvEbPecS_jxXYLqb3BIjYK2IwVFhFgMDXDIz2bft3oawnsp6pfY9fF/s1600/overal+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC2O6T2Gg_5gmzAG425VQTyxJECsdbQEsft6NpPz6nVwelurTV5G95FnTEESijRmrpiQ4huOrj_wtfdU9e4UddhigvEbPecS_jxXYLqb3BIjYK2IwVFhFgMDXDIz2bft3oawnsp6pfY9fF/s400/overal+3.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">This is another thing which will be familiar to you if you have been reading my blog before. I like jumpsuits and I have made lots of them, in various styles (there are even some which never made it to the blog. When the weather cools down a bit, I will take pictures of my favorite jumpsuit from the great blogging hiatus). All the jumpsuits I have made, have been my own designs and my own patterns. I think that really contributes to why I like them. After all, few garments are harder to fit... Body length issues can be terrible with jumpsuits (just try out some RTW ones). If you would like to draft your own, I made a tutorial for it years ago. You can find it <a href="http://petitmainsauvage.blogspot.com/2014/02/the-great-jumpsuit-and-playsuit-tutorial.html" target="_blank">here</a>. For the tutorial, you will need your own bodice and trouser slopers (or tried-and-tested patterns) but I explained how to connect those together. Oh, and I don't think I included this at the time but the straight grain should always run along the center of the trouser legs (so keeping the original grain line on the trousers)</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZno1zmXeywgygsziNIflKktPNyzhL9VKyWiFRZZl3lGBD-HxP8YbO4kTC2sQnbn-6Xj58w8mqEu8nz-KixiCU8Bc-qXc332-Xus9VpcD4E2Cg7yE4pl1yjrVuGdXUOtOvjslF-_Lq5DqI/s1600/overal+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZno1zmXeywgygsziNIflKktPNyzhL9VKyWiFRZZl3lGBD-HxP8YbO4kTC2sQnbn-6Xj58w8mqEu8nz-KixiCU8Bc-qXc332-Xus9VpcD4E2Cg7yE4pl1yjrVuGdXUOtOvjslF-_Lq5DqI/s400/overal+2.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">This particular jumpsuit was made in the dark blue cotton/linen blend I have used before. It's a nice, comfortable and hard-wearing fabric and years ago, I bought the rest of the bolt which was still about 30 meters. I'm still happy to have lots of it. I have used it for jumpsuits, jackets and trousers for myself and a jacket and trousers for E. It's just a nice go-to material for spring and summer.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAk-2nz9OswcNpCKwHUU7zn3u_NvMQKV0f6Z-9ysTcsza7OSFkGImD7zm3IZx8xpAwW2Gj2s4aqEqV0tyewrmb9b2OS_RSvsz_Ruv94wbmVpkLcyx-_1v8ShyphenhyphenarUktJ6h5t9VN3RGGmi16/s1600/overal+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAk-2nz9OswcNpCKwHUU7zn3u_NvMQKV0f6Z-9ysTcsza7OSFkGImD7zm3IZx8xpAwW2Gj2s4aqEqV0tyewrmb9b2OS_RSvsz_Ruv94wbmVpkLcyx-_1v8ShyphenhyphenarUktJ6h5t9VN3RGGmi16/s400/overal+1.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">It has the same sleeves and back as my dress (and I finished it before I promised to show you how to make those) and even the same collar but it has a wrap front. Obviously, the wrap-over bit extends below the waist seam, in the wide legged trousers. I made one mistake though: I made the hole to pull the tie through in the left side seam which means the wrap is tied at the right hip and closes left over right... Which is actually the wrong way round. It doesn't bother me though, so I won't change it. </span><br />
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<br />Laurianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16602295642057814667noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7553172421381359137.post-65854316149110318132020-05-31T09:54:00.001+02:002020-05-31T09:54:19.489+02:00Wearing the new dress<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">This is what the wax print shirt dress looks like when I wear it! I have to repeat, I'm really out of the habit of posing for pictures and I don't have a lot of patience for it anymore. As a result, there are just two pictures and they are not the best. On the other hand, they give a better idea of the real fit than those on the dummy.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Oh, and they show how well these faded bright colours work on me.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfPLeqVpNVRf4P7ZljwiIDAQvYRS7GCKAl8UEis_4vHhyphenhyphenG67imdmbUFK0OOvfTLN3UfxKw0Dmh-LfkrbQdq-K3WKhh1Th3KVUrYyeFNTnaKqlVvuHqA5Ao5q-gGocWc3Yub3vtEtPfEyDD/s1600/jurk1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfPLeqVpNVRf4P7ZljwiIDAQvYRS7GCKAl8UEis_4vHhyphenhyphenG67imdmbUFK0OOvfTLN3UfxKw0Dmh-LfkrbQdq-K3WKhh1Th3KVUrYyeFNTnaKqlVvuHqA5Ao5q-gGocWc3Yub3vtEtPfEyDD/s400/jurk1.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The back is important because I made a pattern choice there which worked out really well. I've been training for rock climbing for the past years and, as a result, the muscles in my shoulders, back and upper arms are now bigger than they ever were before. In fact, I am more muscular all round and obviously that has an impact on how my clothes fit. I am thinking about re-doing my slopers but I don't think now, when a lot of normal day-to-day rhythm isn't there, is the time. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">For this dress, I used my existing sloper but chose a back design to maximize room for arm movement: It has a back yoke which is placed higher on the back than the bottom points of the shoulder darts and all the remaining width from the darts at the back (bottom part of the shoulder dart and waist darts) has been converted to deep pleats under that yoke. The pleats fall more or less on the shoulder blades. Combined with the sleeve, which is a sort of half shirt sleeve, wider and with a shallower sleeve head than the tailored sleeve you draft with a bodice sloper, this gives great ease of movement without really compromising on look and shape. I think I will use this quite a lot...</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Oh, if you are interested in doing this as an alteration but you can't make out how to based on my description, let me know in the comments (or email if Blogger won't let you comment). I could do a tutorial but it is a bit of work so I would like to know it would be of use to somebody. </span><br />
Laurianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16602295642057814667noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7553172421381359137.post-86075717544908742252020-05-27T09:11:00.000+02:002020-05-27T09:11:04.427+02:00DIY t-shirt print<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">After reading the comments on my dress, I thought the next post should be one in which I wear that dress. And, even though I don't have a lot of patience for posing for pictures anymore, I planned to take pictures of a jumpsuit I made two weeks ago as well. But it rained for just about all of the long weekend (here in the Netherlands, we had last Thursday and Friday off). Maybe next weekend will be better.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">For now, I though I would show you something else I made recently: a t-shirt with a print. Long-time readers may remember that I have made such things before (like <a href="http://petitmainsauvage.blogspot.com/2010/04/just-not-quite-jeans-and-t-shirt.html" target="_blank">this one</a>, all the way back in 2010) and if you do, you will also have read my favorite trick for such things. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqZukoSjIps2EzLCPnj6VdwPWaYrjcKnWvY0ipOcLOPeot8BIq2RmQkrQH0PZuUfwQxCgoULKRKhdr5-5IEoclSd8522htyeMUxR0hS6_n5P_TBq_DOkBSKfMFaOYkGdUS0b1ln0XK_2mw/s1600/20200527_082640.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqZukoSjIps2EzLCPnj6VdwPWaYrjcKnWvY0ipOcLOPeot8BIq2RmQkrQH0PZuUfwQxCgoULKRKhdr5-5IEoclSd8522htyeMUxR0hS6_n5P_TBq_DOkBSKfMFaOYkGdUS0b1ln0XK_2mw/s400/20200527_082640.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The trick is very simple: Find an image you want on your t-shirt (online is easy, because you will have to print it out). It doesn't matter if you just want part of the image or if you want to combine things. If possible with the software you have, isolate and/or add together the bits you want on the computer. Mirror the image and print it out.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Now, trace all the elements you want with tailor's chalk and rub the chalked side on to a blank t-shirt. You should now have the fuzzy image on there in chalk which you can then copy in fabric marker.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">When I made my earlier t-shirts, I could only buy coloured fabric markers for light fabric and I used a small jar of fabric paint in white for the prints on black-shirts. Now, I found a white fabric marker for light and dark fabrics at the hobby store (the brand is "panduro"), which made copying the print a lot easier.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The print itself is a line drawing of mountains based on one I found on the internet, with my new favorite German word in one of the more unusual fonts found in Illustrator. If you are reading this as a native German speaker, can you tell me if you know the word "Fernesweh"? E's German colleague didn't. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I didn't make it up though, I heard it in the Rammstein-song "Radio" and it seemed like one of those cases in which the German language has a word for something which is described in several words in most other languages. "Fernesweh" is the longing/aching for far-away places, the direct opposite of "Heimweh" (= homesickness. In Dutch we call this "heimwee" which is clearly just borrowing the German word rather than making our own, especially if you consider that "Heim" is German for "home" while the Dutch word is "thuis"...). "Radio" was one of the songs I listened to a lot when making face masks last months and that word got stuck in my head. After all, with Corona crisis stopping all of us from traveling, longing for the far-away is just one of those minor issues of everyday life now. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">And in my case, that means longing for the mountains. I love mountains and I'm rock climber, living in one of the flattest countries on earth which has no rock at all. The Netherlands are a very small country so, under normal circumstances, it is easy to travel to Belgium, France or Germany or even a bit further to Austria, Switzerland or Italy to get one's mountain-fix. But not now. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Last year, I spent the first week of May climbing in the Frankenjura, in southern Germany and that is the region I most often think about when dreaming about what I would like to do in these long, sunny weekends. So, this print seemed appropriate. </span>Laurianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16602295642057814667noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7553172421381359137.post-30064209382639469972020-05-19T21:11:00.002+02:002020-05-19T21:11:22.138+02:00New dress!<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">As you might expect, I didn't spend all my sewing time on substraction cutting these past weeks. Of course I also made some things I can really wear! Oh, and I made another shirt for E as well. Short-sleeved men's shirts are so much quicker to make than long-sleeved ones...</span><div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I thought this would be the most interesting item to show to you. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Unfortunately, it doesn't fit the dummy anywhere near as well as it fits me. This dummy was given to me by a friend a few years ago. It's basically a display dummy for a shop. I was happy to have it because unlike my second-hand adjustable dummy, this one has a body I can stick pins in. Maybe it is lucky that I didn't get around to using it much for draping because its shape is at least as far off as the other one's. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">And I didn't have an opportunity to take pictures until late in the afternoon and the light isn't great...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Anyway. I do actually really like this dress. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I bought the fabric as African wax print at the market but it really is a rather cheap copy of the real thing (which I realized before I bought it but it was quite cheap so I decided to take the risk). It's not even cotton but a bit of a mystery blend. When I bought it, the fabric was stiff like thick paper and the print was very bright. I washed it with fabric softener and this is how it came out. It has a rather nice drape but the colours ran like crazy. That was last summer. I was a bit put off by how much the fabric had faded and left it in the stash for months. This spring, when the weather was getting warmer, I had another look at it and decided those faded colours would probably work quite well on me. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I decided to use the entire piece of fabric (African wax print, and its imitations, is usually sold in cut lengths of 6 yards. The fabric width is about 1 to 1.10 meter) for one garment. So, of course, that would be a dress. I have made lots of 1950's style dresses in the past, width past-the-knee skirts but somehow, I thought this dress would look better with a long skirt. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">So, it became a shirtwaist with a full length, half-circle skirt. It has short sleeves and a convertible collar. At the back, all the width from the darts was shifted into those deep pleats under the yoke. That allows for some glorious room for movement without compromising on shape. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The overall effect feels a bit 1970's but that's fine with me. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Oh, by the way, I used my favorite kind of hem for a short shirt sleeve. It's an easy trick with a mirrored hem which gives a turn-up-like look. If it is not obvious to you how to do this and you would like to know, say so in the comments and I'll make a tutorial next time I use it (which should be fairly soon, with a lot of short-sleeve-weather yet to come). </span></div>
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Laurianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16602295642057814667noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7553172421381359137.post-50148161055631444482020-05-14T21:22:00.001+02:002020-05-14T21:22:27.947+02:00Little experiments 2<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">And here are the other little dresses!</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjskvG4Uq7f8uUHXVFu351A3AnMo1sI-OGU-FGbW0WSzAQ7BxVEj2G2MMAkrn1vfQEOIq6S9nh-jxD7HW6td5qgbiMd-zXyqLiRF97D7-aJQ-aM89e5y1OYQRsZPX1DwmvQElRLHwoToKWo/s1600/Schermafbeelding+2020-05-14+om+20.25.07.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="626" data-original-width="848" height="295" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjskvG4Uq7f8uUHXVFu351A3AnMo1sI-OGU-FGbW0WSzAQ7BxVEj2G2MMAkrn1vfQEOIq6S9nh-jxD7HW6td5qgbiMd-zXyqLiRF97D7-aJQ-aM89e5y1OYQRsZPX1DwmvQElRLHwoToKWo/s400/Schermafbeelding+2020-05-14+om+20.25.07.png" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">For the third one, I used the simple bodice placement again but this time there is much more distance between the holes which are sewn together. And those holes are spaced diagonally.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKXdLMN4MUZ6qsIXwrEME2JeGyqUgyj6yxmfUJDjQ6cbajrF1EPQy_2a2Iq_aug-tMTp_B9tNtBWt_u3TUyUl1pXRb7sb2TXqCUULcjPqHSblWm8AKAD6IKivNofdgixUxz_LgEBX86rZM/s1600/20200502_105941.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKXdLMN4MUZ6qsIXwrEME2JeGyqUgyj6yxmfUJDjQ6cbajrF1EPQy_2a2Iq_aug-tMTp_B9tNtBWt_u3TUyUl1pXRb7sb2TXqCUULcjPqHSblWm8AKAD6IKivNofdgixUxz_LgEBX86rZM/s400/20200502_105941.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Result: not so great. These connected holes take in so much fabric that it is hard to even get into the dress. And once again, the result is quite freaky.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyC_iFwKUWo_pb61eG-xXALrI47PPJ-nQZ0INyYWmw2dSgfY-XgrzkEDviPUbclNgCjPqWDmFTXny06wlGgkQmlQVyk0QbiehrklwmT3EzwERxyje9Pj8gtd3gj4kQmCL9uHyXZhPL56T_/s1600/Schermafbeelding+2020-05-14+om+20.27.20.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="639" data-original-width="646" height="395" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyC_iFwKUWo_pb61eG-xXALrI47PPJ-nQZ0INyYWmw2dSgfY-XgrzkEDviPUbclNgCjPqWDmFTXny06wlGgkQmlQVyk0QbiehrklwmT3EzwERxyje9Pj8gtd3gj4kQmCL9uHyXZhPL56T_/s400/Schermafbeelding+2020-05-14+om+20.27.20.png" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Dress number four. Less fabric, just "2 meters" but again, I cut the bodice pieces too small. Back bodice in the usual position, front bodice at a 45 degree angle. Only one set of holes but again far apart.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Very different front view. I kind of like having both fabrics on display there. On the other hand, the bodice really pulls to the side and once again, the amount of fabric caught in the connection of the holes doesn't leave enough room for movement.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Dress five, angled bodices again but much simpler hole placement. I started out with one set of holes but when I had sewn that, the light-coloured part of the skirt was still way too long so I added an extra set in that. I just don't remember exactly at what angle.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The result is not bad. The bodice has the same pulling issues as number four and it is, again, easy to see why. If you lay these dresses flat on the table, the skirts basically goes sideways. I wonder how they would be behave in real life. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">As I told you in the previous post, I messed up the scale of the bodice pieces in all but the first tiny dresses. That means I can't really draw conclusions about the amount of fabric I will need based on these. On the other hand, I still learned some valuable lessons. My first full scale attempt at substraction cutting taught me not to make very long connecting side seams and not to place holes close to the hemline. My small scale experiments warned against catching large amounts of fabric in those holes. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Of course, the dress shapes all look a bit more extreme on this scale. The fabric I used was linen and although the pale stuff is quite soft, the purple has a bit of body. To get this super-sculptural effect on full scale, you would have to use something like denim. A softer fabric should give a more subtle effect.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I'm not sure where to go from here yet. I might make that quarter scale bodice after all and try again with that or I may try and make a full size dress using the set-up of the second dress. I think number five also has potential but I'm not so sure about the way to bodice pulls to the side. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">If I make a full-size dress, I won't use the same basic top shape again. I think I will make something which will look more like my usual dress bodices. After all, there is no reason why you can't use darts, sleeves or a back yoke in combination with substraction cutting... </span>Laurianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16602295642057814667noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7553172421381359137.post-43429232327366124932020-05-13T22:17:00.003+02:002020-05-13T22:17:38.362+02:00Little experiments in subtraction cutting 1<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Didn't I promise you tiny dresses? Quarter scale dresses I made to try out subtraction cutting? Here they are!</span><div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I have to start with one big disclaimer: The proportions on most of them are off, sometimes way off because I was lazy and didn't make quarter size bodice pieces. I just sort of free-handed the shapes which got smaller with each tiny dress. So most of my tiny dresses don't actually allow me to calculate how much fabric I would need for a wearable version. However, they still taught me a lot about what does and does not work with this technique.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">If you have read anything about subtraction cutting, you will know that you mark your bodice pieces somewhere in the middle of the fabric, you connect them and cut out the negative space surrounding them. And then you also cut pairs of holes large enough for your hips to pass through. Those will be sewn together later, creating twists. I photographed all my fabric/pattern lay-outs as well as the tiny dresses with the hope of learning what does what.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I will include red lines on the lay-out pictures to show you what goes where and show you front, back and side(s) of the dresses.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">First dress: Bodice in the simplest set-up with the back towards the horizontal seam and the front facing it. Try-out of different ways of shaping the side seam (angle or curve at the bottom of the bodice). Two sideways displacements and one simple one, high up on the back piece.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Lesson: Don't do that. It doesn't work. You get a crazily bundled up knot of fabric which would be both uncomfortable and unflattering to wear.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Second dress: Back to basics. Bodice pieces in the same place but this time I decided on the sharp angle between the bodice and the connecting side seam. Holes which will be sewn together close to each other. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Result: That's more like it! It's like a modern bustled ball gown. I'll just have to figure out what to do with that very uneven hemline (I don't mind hi-low but this is just crazy). Oh, and I caught myself trying to shift the bottom of the skirt the whole time so I'd better line up those two sets of holes. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">One thing you can see in both dresses is the difference made by the side seam treatment: the angled seam created a more defined waistline. Of course, because you simply can't find quarter weight fabric, the result is a bit exaggerated in scale model dresses like these.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I more tiny dresses to show you, but too many pictures would make this post too long and it's getting late. I'll be back with more tomorrow!</span></div>
Laurianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16602295642057814667noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7553172421381359137.post-80143166744885722412020-05-07T17:13:00.002+02:002020-05-07T17:13:54.648+02:00That 1950's sweater<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc93uOJm0Pck50BqDSrttgtTrhyphenhyphen0NSkcPCMDeWCXPHZyK-XI4JjqrUwf7tK81n7tAopNiX6HXjMnA_SUEMTPrHWH9zn8mdSYLf4D-uu3PTvKzubuRIFU2-DlGBQNo0bW5-k83zpLeoAGRS/s1600/shirt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1054" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc93uOJm0Pck50BqDSrttgtTrhyphenhyphen0NSkcPCMDeWCXPHZyK-XI4JjqrUwf7tK81n7tAopNiX6HXjMnA_SUEMTPrHWH9zn8mdSYLf4D-uu3PTvKzubuRIFU2-DlGBQNo0bW5-k83zpLeoAGRS/s640/shirt.jpg" width="420" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Ok, I know I said I wouldn't do this... but after two posts about making this kind of thing, I thought I should show you what it looks like when worn.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">My patience for posing has decreased quite a bit and I have lost my appetite for stern faces. So, this was the best picture I took.</span>Laurianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16602295642057814667noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7553172421381359137.post-59766189191951523292020-05-05T21:30:00.000+02:002020-05-05T21:30:06.701+02:00Sew your own 1950's t-shirt<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">So, you've made your pattern, now you can start cutting and sewing. </span><div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">You can basically use any kind of knit fabric for this pattern although I wouldn't recommend really flimsy, very stretchy kinds of jersey. Because this pattern actually has ease, you can use those odd knits which hardly stretch at all (you can sometimes find those on the bargain table of your fabric store...). When I use a fabric like that, I cut the top a bit wider by adding 1 cm between the fold of the fabric and center back/front.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">When cutting, center back and center front should obviously be placed on the fold. The straight grain line on the sleeve is that vertical help line you drew. And I don't think I have to tell anyone that you can fold your fabric differently than just in half if that makes cutting more economical... Just make sure the folds are straight, preserving the straight grain (which is not really the right term in a knit, but you know what I mean.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Now, the sewing starts. I usually use the serger straight away on a knit fabric but you could also use a stretch stitch on your sewing machine.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The first thing to sew is that neckline.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I've made this top with and without fusible interfacing in the neckline and my choice in the matter depends on the fabric. If it is likely to roll, interface. If not, you can do without. The interfacing gives the neckline a more defined edge, without is a bit softer. Both work well.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">If you use interfacing, use quite a thin variety which is suitable for knits (this will still reduce the stretch by quite a bit so if you want to use it, make sure your neckline is big enough to let your head pass through without relying on stretch).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Finish the edges of the neckline facings.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7RYCSj_9KXvyVI7WG2aRorVufnOrTJfOSw9wI8K_iujWX4Gdm5Icc9Aepg4ElBihgzsDos4jr0J2CxUiPeXBqI_sbuG-Z82Es9uywRzEsaPRRUqSvt_r1gkpWoP2bB7X8sbqLxwidlS10/s1600/20200502_143153.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7RYCSj_9KXvyVI7WG2aRorVufnOrTJfOSw9wI8K_iujWX4Gdm5Icc9Aepg4ElBihgzsDos4jr0J2CxUiPeXBqI_sbuG-Z82Es9uywRzEsaPRRUqSvt_r1gkpWoP2bB7X8sbqLxwidlS10/s400/20200502_143153.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Press the facings to the wrong sides of the bodice pieces.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhatlmwSMrrqi8rOtJoZVSvBrryBMHxlRyLO8PZQpdsg23tOtO-fMHJb4_xE4DoSAl0olRk1CEEO9pSqHKA86kZsBNKnLGlLEddDnRmWPSIDl5PzektNN72i-Bo5OUDDwqpQWL1TVXiMEyF/s1600/20200502_143347.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhatlmwSMrrqi8rOtJoZVSvBrryBMHxlRyLO8PZQpdsg23tOtO-fMHJb4_xE4DoSAl0olRk1CEEO9pSqHKA86kZsBNKnLGlLEddDnRmWPSIDl5PzektNN72i-Bo5OUDDwqpQWL1TVXiMEyF/s400/20200502_143347.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Pin the shoulder lines, with the front facing in place. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgim89BfGgES-D8rB7cNzRmCXLhXIFkEL-DAPm5lN4qhfd_0kR8zckBJtefYsO8LTAU7MSwgprUuBr3xsKPxT9zWVyBFJdjVHaCmNcD5mL_TLrp2kntQnlX_nPa6KugxCO5_HCaxIt52_t0/s1600/20200502_143447.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgim89BfGgES-D8rB7cNzRmCXLhXIFkEL-DAPm5lN4qhfd_0kR8zckBJtefYsO8LTAU7MSwgprUuBr3xsKPxT9zWVyBFJdjVHaCmNcD5mL_TLrp2kntQnlX_nPa6KugxCO5_HCaxIt52_t0/s400/20200502_143447.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Fold the back facing over the front facing and pin through all layers. Make sure to remove any pins under the facing.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqCYRnl-yZfBoLMELLioGW34of_LVVnjHW-K-CCU6gnXCY6ISpBWnp0MwOCk0cSM6DGTUYajZdLVO5WLZzHjkHpAcm7YOfSduqEPyOyWETD6vSf-T10W2vhB9BLHm_TXT9OYcNIr2sGAup/s1600/20200502_143712.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqCYRnl-yZfBoLMELLioGW34of_LVVnjHW-K-CCU6gnXCY6ISpBWnp0MwOCk0cSM6DGTUYajZdLVO5WLZzHjkHpAcm7YOfSduqEPyOyWETD6vSf-T10W2vhB9BLHm_TXT9OYcNIr2sGAup/s400/20200502_143712.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Sew the shoulder seams, including those facings.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRGDO85hu3WnKWSuKitjrvn7P_fdZR5VObG-L3iy5bckCG6DSlixLP6E3lWFub-RXbV9sg4QCaUC1pSqyv9o6oKmJJj5y-8_yE6_AruhRTvnYILCSFu0_BZFLL2X1HMYhHDV6qF0Hk245X/s1600/20200502_143801.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRGDO85hu3WnKWSuKitjrvn7P_fdZR5VObG-L3iy5bckCG6DSlixLP6E3lWFub-RXbV9sg4QCaUC1pSqyv9o6oKmJJj5y-8_yE6_AruhRTvnYILCSFu0_BZFLL2X1HMYhHDV6qF0Hk245X/s320/20200502_143801.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Turn right side out and press on the inside. Now you have shoulder seams and a neatly finished neckline.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Insert sleeves. Pay attention when pinning, there is a difference between front and back of the sleeve.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Sew side seams and arm seams in one go.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Hem bottom edge en sleeves.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Finished!</span></div>
Laurianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16602295642057814667noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7553172421381359137.post-27542967574743493842020-05-04T22:06:00.000+02:002020-05-04T22:06:07.223+02:00Make your own 1950's style t-shirt!<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Do you like 1950's style cardigans, sweaters and the occasional t-shirt (those were not commonly used in ladies' wear yet)? Designs like this one?</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1BHTXseXbd8FB-AZDBa97HH5mzmvcBP3gjGO6dJHt9xtFKuKEWdhuHhPVXixVZg3p5YVuix_LoZClAItXNxLACvsMUSKrSuRtUVPOgqCsv-2h3AKJYK0dkv8_-_RnZu2eUoQuy6v25XlL/s1600/ff84da81facd38acfddbc73a52376898.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1272" data-original-width="564" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1BHTXseXbd8FB-AZDBa97HH5mzmvcBP3gjGO6dJHt9xtFKuKEWdhuHhPVXixVZg3p5YVuix_LoZClAItXNxLACvsMUSKrSuRtUVPOgqCsv-2h3AKJYK0dkv8_-_RnZu2eUoQuy6v25XlL/s400/ff84da81facd38acfddbc73a52376898.jpg" width="176" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Well, I do. Unfortunately, this is one of those styles which seems hard to translate to the present day. I have tried some original knitting patterns but the result was always disappointing. They are often a bit too short for me but what is worse, even if they're not, they won't sit well. The part from the waist down is usually knitted as a straight bit of rib knit. This means that although it will stretch over the high hip, it just creeps up. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">And it seems like such a nice day-to-day style, you know, to be worn without all the period accurate shape wear...</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxU7BilvQhiGfx4X4uoVUsGa0DCH1Ey1f93kKlH-5knWWITZys1VsgiRpiKJrIkNvxXXdV2hKenynuZUnvxtMIU9j1K8pM0XtRCWVxlFclOyajo2YS0rC3oynK0A_cG8cXvZfOaDoojxY6/s1600/Schermafbeelding+2020-05-04+om+20.59.55.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="704" data-original-width="465" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxU7BilvQhiGfx4X4uoVUsGa0DCH1Ey1f93kKlH-5knWWITZys1VsgiRpiKJrIkNvxXXdV2hKenynuZUnvxtMIU9j1K8pM0XtRCWVxlFclOyajo2YS0rC3oynK0A_cG8cXvZfOaDoojxY6/s640/Schermafbeelding+2020-05-04+om+20.59.55.png" width="422" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">So, I did what I usually do. I tried to make a pattern to get the result I wanted. I took a bit of experimentation but I ended up with something I really like (the dummy doesn't do them justice...). The first two were made in winter, I used a fairly warm knit and gave them a nice high turtle neck. When the weather got warmer, I tried thinner fabrics and a different neckline (and different sleeve length, of course). And that neckline became my absolute favorite. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">If you have a tried-and-tested t-shirt pattern, making this pattern won't be difficult. However, it may require a bit of to get it exactly right for you. After all body proportions vary, as does posture and then we haven't even mentioned preferences.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I'll give you the pattern instructions in this post and I'll come back tomorrow with some extra information about fabric and construction.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Oh, and one more thing: my pattern pictures are not to scale. Proportions can be a bit off, in this case, they are on the sleeve. And unless I write otherwise, they are without seam or hem allowance.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJfk0oLU3rl81BYHkOkpR0vBoAuRiVEcThXjqvUZ1kEvGMYV-_XsFbpbuBsH_rknBdgEShyThaTdzafseKUzYldfmWEFhhLAmGtHA13GwA8g-iQkMX5hlBDbvwLf9rnviNqNJnIxcWzzJ6/s1600/Schermafbeelding+2020-05-02+om+21.34.59.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="657" data-original-width="619" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJfk0oLU3rl81BYHkOkpR0vBoAuRiVEcThXjqvUZ1kEvGMYV-_XsFbpbuBsH_rknBdgEShyThaTdzafseKUzYldfmWEFhhLAmGtHA13GwA8g-iQkMX5hlBDbvwLf9rnviNqNJnIxcWzzJ6/s400/Schermafbeelding+2020-05-02+om+21.34.59.png" width="376" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">All right. You should start with your tried-and-tested pattern. Preferably one with a marked waistline which is right for you and no darts. If yours has very straight bodice pieces, you may want to try your t-shirt on and check the fit at the waist, you might want to take the pattern in at the waistline to get a shape a bit like this. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Now, if you are trying on the t-shirt anyway, have a careful look at the neckline. Does it sit perfectly or does it pull back it bit? Slightly gaping at the back neck while it sits high against your throat? It that is the case, you will need to make an alteration or my high, straight neckline will quite uncomfortable.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdklM_H9UbztAaOmEOvNCAN_sPthPpwtlfFRTvhrZKI38AjZN8UN6hKGZV8dBw3lDGNOuSj40WilKZivFSNplKcsbcg9EYWJQ9jHJN9TvwiKPKUMRiST-2bjvsJN7oQwtekz4mvw8AQLER/s1600/Schermafbeelding+2020-05-02+om+21.41.01.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="501" data-original-width="466" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdklM_H9UbztAaOmEOvNCAN_sPthPpwtlfFRTvhrZKI38AjZN8UN6hKGZV8dBw3lDGNOuSj40WilKZivFSNplKcsbcg9EYWJQ9jHJN9TvwiKPKUMRiST-2bjvsJN7oQwtekz4mvw8AQLER/s400/Schermafbeelding+2020-05-02+om+21.41.01.png" width="371" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH8TJjLwKzPuR1tyusBFj2-EvhlciDeBxhOI9jqAsX1adoNzSn99su2SUs-prL52NzoTEeWRdLWnMuw-Y8Ym7n4UwNx-OoM99OzaOISY00QQPyyov2wXXIsVi-l5nwfbPkfP2sMCK6gTZ6/s1600/Schermafbeelding+2020-05-02+om+21.43.31.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="661" data-original-width="634" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH8TJjLwKzPuR1tyusBFj2-EvhlciDeBxhOI9jqAsX1adoNzSn99su2SUs-prL52NzoTEeWRdLWnMuw-Y8Ym7n4UwNx-OoM99OzaOISY00QQPyyov2wXXIsVi-l5nwfbPkfP2sMCK6gTZ6/s400/Schermafbeelding+2020-05-02+om+21.43.31.png" width="382" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Put the pieces together at the shoulder line and draw a new shoulder line, mine was 1.5 cm to the front. Move center front and back as well and draw the new neckline (don't worry about getting it perfect, it won't be used in the end result).</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOpXKLOCzbvwvxrBPhReIDUm9VrU43XeyrMyLZVcP77e-xqPGwz2YQtPtoQImAxFXf2YnA35ZRNmJw_uyMFjuZaLUCdrpwhdl3QRYNDFWZU6EqwCQlK8u6497Pqz8vvRrX6yeZda-4sRS3/s1600/Schermafbeelding+2020-05-02+om+21.47.01.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="463" data-original-width="581" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOpXKLOCzbvwvxrBPhReIDUm9VrU43XeyrMyLZVcP77e-xqPGwz2YQtPtoQImAxFXf2YnA35ZRNmJw_uyMFjuZaLUCdrpwhdl3QRYNDFWZU6EqwCQlK8u6497Pqz8vvRrX6yeZda-4sRS3/s400/Schermafbeelding+2020-05-02+om+21.47.01.png" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Separate the pieces again mark a point 2 cm outside the under arm point (the point on the bodice where the armscye meets the side seam. If your pattern has quite narrow sleeves which pull into the armpits a bit, you may also want to drop this point by 1 or 2 cm.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Also mark a point 1 cm above and 1.5 cm out from the shoulder point. Draw the new shoulder lines like the blue ones in the picture.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP6Sd4bj3xL0cn60D4rxj9tReFZKpO6X_qIXD1UMT9mR6vunfyAPjIvJUZG1zAWhKRMnKvy4zpRhKUWLN9tYIfbYaTkHXLlBowZqsbKKbWYXJ8H9ORwIs3a1BxzOSvk66BE1OT0_s17_66/s1600/Schermafbeelding+2020-05-02+om+21.48.18.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="457" data-original-width="566" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP6Sd4bj3xL0cn60D4rxj9tReFZKpO6X_qIXD1UMT9mR6vunfyAPjIvJUZG1zAWhKRMnKvy4zpRhKUWLN9tYIfbYaTkHXLlBowZqsbKKbWYXJ8H9ORwIs3a1BxzOSvk66BE1OT0_s17_66/s400/Schermafbeelding+2020-05-02+om+21.48.18.png" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Draw a new armscye. It should not cross the old one.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcO033dQniyNlIv82ZIApchF8KssVjfCgfPRvwAPS7IAQARK5hKalGXjPpxQ39xSjY58-M8IC_CFjyy3R4P8uyVCnAm3ezTUPsjurOw32U7oJcQXfP_Z0bDVXc6nNm4Fs7a1GzZfkKz7Qe/s1600/Schermafbeelding+2020-05-02+om+21.51.11.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="613" data-original-width="596" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcO033dQniyNlIv82ZIApchF8KssVjfCgfPRvwAPS7IAQARK5hKalGXjPpxQ39xSjY58-M8IC_CFjyy3R4P8uyVCnAm3ezTUPsjurOw32U7oJcQXfP_Z0bDVXc6nNm4Fs7a1GzZfkKz7Qe/s400/Schermafbeelding+2020-05-02+om+21.51.11.png" width="388" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Now, slash both pattern pieces at the waistline and open up by 3 cm. Draw your new side seam from the under arm point to the lower waistline. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Draw the bottom edge of the shirt. Mine is usually about 10 cm below the waistline but this is based on your preference. I also keep the bottom edge as straight as possible because I love to use fabrics with stripes for this design.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">You can use the pattern like this if you prefer your usual neckline To get my favorite neckline, there is one more step:</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbQEHLZLMZK2KBQBw51zJMLAFJ1_DkbnDpDFe6k1jzeIP0MMRNxUskwFltghhiUB2kAMGPYH9eYfHBvcPhyphenhyphenw2ru_k4fguOmDWi7ldEZVlMaVRRYSijIdQX-BHNtPHts5ufUaRyXp03LHG8/s1600/Schermafbeelding+2020-05-02+om+21.53.52.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="508" data-original-width="542" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbQEHLZLMZK2KBQBw51zJMLAFJ1_DkbnDpDFe6k1jzeIP0MMRNxUskwFltghhiUB2kAMGPYH9eYfHBvcPhyphenhyphenw2ru_k4fguOmDWi7ldEZVlMaVRRYSijIdQX-BHNtPHts5ufUaRyXp03LHG8/s320/Schermafbeelding+2020-05-02+om+21.53.52.png" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Mark a point about half way on the shoulder line and draw a straight line from that point to center front and back. You want this line to be the same length on both front and back.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-y7T8A_az69LjSuKp5pPDG8IiybbGUw26y-bzLuCbwXmDLJ_Ig9sXbo9n54NdajAt0me8iDaWl6oQH1o3C9iAGQRsIQxAUK1pLoBmeqBvF10XwRMh2ILsDdC_vsf5XM5a9_bIWmzoM93h/s1600/Schermafbeelding+2020-05-02+om+21.54.45.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="538" data-original-width="553" height="311" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-y7T8A_az69LjSuKp5pPDG8IiybbGUw26y-bzLuCbwXmDLJ_Ig9sXbo9n54NdajAt0me8iDaWl6oQH1o3C9iAGQRsIQxAUK1pLoBmeqBvF10XwRMh2ILsDdC_vsf5XM5a9_bIWmzoM93h/s320/Schermafbeelding+2020-05-02+om+21.54.45.png" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">This neckline should be made with a cut-on facing. You make this by mirroring 4 cm over the line you just drew.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">And now, you still need a sleeve pattern. The upper bodice is fairly loose fitting and so is the sleeve. This means you can get away with drafting a very easy pattern:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Draw a vertical line about as long as you want your sleeve to be. Square across at 9 cm below the top. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWZrvgfz1z5ttZKCJFzMzae1OTKzVP6sp3GbvbH0u1UBm41vCSsYqb6qhHk5QNsUEpIWlHRH5nJ3P89lJzAZyLaoC3vPFu6BlpnqrPJg7JTsv6_OMaNXS7IIdyxlNsl2PraF-rZEZ7ZM2d/s1600/Schermafbeelding+2020-05-02+om+22.05.16.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="492" data-original-width="632" height="311" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWZrvgfz1z5ttZKCJFzMzae1OTKzVP6sp3GbvbH0u1UBm41vCSsYqb6qhHk5QNsUEpIWlHRH5nJ3P89lJzAZyLaoC3vPFu6BlpnqrPJg7JTsv6_OMaNXS7IIdyxlNsl2PraF-rZEZ7ZM2d/s400/Schermafbeelding+2020-05-02+om+22.05.16.png" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Measure the front and back armscye are draw diagonal lines from the top of the vertical line to the horizontal one with those measurements.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Draw in the sleeve head. At the front, it should cross the help line at about 1/3, at the back at about 1/2. Measure the sleeve head and remove any excess length at the edges.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD9irQKEDoLx_G8kM7UKoTbsAFANgF1p4Ennq3c89QRdK84OP0l9V10M7_XDA47xAyA50qc21a8RKL0uxDcEhOmyg4LT9EYFWv6BifKhUuTzKft82ONkezDkpXyu7z_USCvJpc40PKhp2R/s1600/Schermafbeelding+2020-05-02+om+22.09.35.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="496" data-original-width="608" height="325" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD9irQKEDoLx_G8kM7UKoTbsAFANgF1p4Ennq3c89QRdK84OP0l9V10M7_XDA47xAyA50qc21a8RKL0uxDcEhOmyg4LT9EYFWv6BifKhUuTzKft82ONkezDkpXyu7z_USCvJpc40PKhp2R/s400/Schermafbeelding+2020-05-02+om+22.09.35.png" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Draw the side seams, you'll want these to be fairly tapered.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Your pattern is now finished. Add seam and hem allowances to your preference.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span>Laurianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16602295642057814667noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7553172421381359137.post-84106541769262774532020-04-30T22:34:00.002+02:002020-04-30T22:34:26.235+02:00Substraction cutting<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Thank you for the nice comments on my previous post. I'm happy to hear from you!</span><div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Today, I thought I would show you something I have been trying out in the past few weeks. There's no time like now to try out strange new techniques and this is one I came across on Pinterest around the time that schools here in the Netherlands closed (I actually thought about recommending it to my students but I'm not their pattern making teacher and I don't want to mess up someone else's teaching...).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">It is called "subtraction cutting" and it is a way of making clothes by which, instead of cutting the pieces you need out of a piece of fabric and discarding the rest, you cut away some pieces you don't need in the middle of a piece of fabric and what is left becomes the garment. The technique is the brainchild of designer <a href="https://linktr.ee/SubtractionCutting" target="_blank">Julian Roberts</a>. Many of the pictures you will find on Pinterest and without a doubt on other platforms as well seem to be from people who attended workshops taught by him. But you don't have to be able to attend one of those. This is a designer who is interested in spreading his ideas and to that end his manifesto is available as a free download on <a href="https://www.thecuttingclass.com/subtraction-pattern-cutting-with-julian-roberts/" target="_blank">The Cutting Class</a>. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">To be fair, this is a technique which is at the same time very simple and very complicated. With a bit of help from the booklet and in possession of some kind of pattern for a basic top, anyone with a bit of sewing experience can have a go this. And is fairly likely to end up with a result that will look unique and creative.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">However, it is hard to really get your head around. And harder yet to predict what your finished dress will be like. Normally, as a pattern maker, I know what it is I am making. Here, the insecurity is part of the process (it says so in the booklet...).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I made two dresses using deep stash fabrics to try this out:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxLbScr6K4J0PN44PzlL4XPqvrE-PKt_BI0Ay6JWmxJfO2BKe2FS9PBTTzUtma5_T_d00XdafG_O5yZSlv02qVMpZA2iCseoz4xjXxZqBCE5L75pSXjW2vZ_mNOugVTD8ueqpzLo18em6K/s1600/20200425_160033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxLbScr6K4J0PN44PzlL4XPqvrE-PKt_BI0Ay6JWmxJfO2BKe2FS9PBTTzUtma5_T_d00XdafG_O5yZSlv02qVMpZA2iCseoz4xjXxZqBCE5L75pSXjW2vZ_mNOugVTD8ueqpzLo18em6K/s400/20200425_160033.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUA-BFcIei4IQWv1w8reFK9d_sefAYcpLd6j9ZWQlTXu0GTCR_LMeAQzLkuQ9UrKGzwu_DujXeBl6CNgAVk8UCHtEY3USM3oh5G42jq4yqyVK_Cs4R5DDHANA4S-pD3LF_mw1SU_7LTxKE/s1600/20200425_160050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUA-BFcIei4IQWv1w8reFK9d_sefAYcpLd6j9ZWQlTXu0GTCR_LMeAQzLkuQ9UrKGzwu_DujXeBl6CNgAVk8UCHtEY3USM3oh5G42jq4yqyVK_Cs4R5DDHANA4S-pD3LF_mw1SU_7LTxKE/s400/20200425_160050.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">This one was made from viscose/rayon jersey using a method explained in the booklet. The top part was cut and constructed normally but from the waist down, the rest of the garment (front and back) was one big piece of fabric. In that piece, I cut two sets of holes which were sewn together to create the draped effect.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaHG99FZ4kssvOGK6Aja0fOOuL3Bw62VkwH3-AykzOv3E4cvP-vTa1QsDmCg5N0sAJ1IZpIf5ImX-mZwqMhuyD41_C2_o6yYNHEGvEBJXn-xHc5EjqQSNyfUnL2G57LurqZKq_YPlci8Wm/s1600/20200425_160106.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaHG99FZ4kssvOGK6Aja0fOOuL3Bw62VkwH3-AykzOv3E4cvP-vTa1QsDmCg5N0sAJ1IZpIf5ImX-mZwqMhuyD41_C2_o6yYNHEGvEBJXn-xHc5EjqQSNyfUnL2G57LurqZKq_YPlci8Wm/s400/20200425_160106.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibS4_HHbmXXDG_wu4wQzfRlbFs0WVdfLFfNL3EdKM2W7WFs4Nx5JAP6SwGWdGBqnxhn11P5qsMRt1DFHQHZTa1VnqWod97Jz2UQ3nffH2QDvzcUQQbp210Na6AZ_4Hc7xNKhprf1r-sfeS/s1600/20200425_160128.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibS4_HHbmXXDG_wu4wQzfRlbFs0WVdfLFfNL3EdKM2W7WFs4Nx5JAP6SwGWdGBqnxhn11P5qsMRt1DFHQHZTa1VnqWod97Jz2UQ3nffH2QDvzcUQQbp210Na6AZ_4Hc7xNKhprf1r-sfeS/s400/20200425_160128.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">This dress is wearable, especially after I cut away some fabric at the front hem (done before I took these pictures), but it taught me not to go too close to the hemline with those holes. Having a loop of fabric around your legs below the knee isn't very nice.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The second dress was made in the way you will see most if you do a search for subtraction cutting. It's pattern/fabric lay-out looks something like this:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYvqGoyVbIr6-8mm1OU3xpeSueyS8iKHv3AQuGb2Jz5gx-eAN9yH48C7-QUGZItucwfEi3QUKvQwpSopMVUBAoKNA_VjUIaqTgoZOeTzq6J86XYj8JB6ccBRXBeOQ007eTb__TjFqqPSTU/s1600/Schermafbeelding+2020-04-30+om+21.48.12.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="711" data-original-width="1034" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYvqGoyVbIr6-8mm1OU3xpeSueyS8iKHv3AQuGb2Jz5gx-eAN9yH48C7-QUGZItucwfEi3QUKvQwpSopMVUBAoKNA_VjUIaqTgoZOeTzq6J86XYj8JB6ccBRXBeOQ007eTb__TjFqqPSTU/s400/Schermafbeelding+2020-04-30+om+21.48.12.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">This is not really the lay-out I used for this dress. This one has the bodice pieces on the bias and one extra long curved seam connecting the bodice pieces (but I didn't take a picture).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">You use two pieces of fabric, each of about 1 meter wide (mine were a bit wider) and 3 meters long. You sew them together along one long side, place your pattern pieces and cut them out. Then, you sew the other long side and the short side close to the bodice pieces, so the whole thing looks like a duvet cover with holes in it. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Then, you sew the bodice pieces together and connect the round holes (which have to be large enough for your hips to pass through) according to plan (the red lines in my drawing. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">And this is the dress. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjDEvap_VfJ8e930HG33DiKs8pYNbt_iA-z_Sd-tMnz1bWIwfFiw_OjqvNLXfrzaM0GtlYMA50bNACUlR5d1FFTHBaRaaKc7L07y2ErkX0DXtZhmMcaA1LEiHpXcqzHOjx9KKC3bAenW2T/s1600/20200425_160443.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjDEvap_VfJ8e930HG33DiKs8pYNbt_iA-z_Sd-tMnz1bWIwfFiw_OjqvNLXfrzaM0GtlYMA50bNACUlR5d1FFTHBaRaaKc7L07y2ErkX0DXtZhmMcaA1LEiHpXcqzHOjx9KKC3bAenW2T/s400/20200425_160443.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiblg7bJAmSNYG7P7faFHAzlm7fctXxT5rt6gWMHtBWkzM0wggV5nBgAZdODXn1afV44YcXPL91Kuek4eFsQivdJezcweZ-NnjyzSns8qmM1b85O_syEiDtM3FJuYgs12drSNCgb0zbvIgz/s1600/20200425_160507.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiblg7bJAmSNYG7P7faFHAzlm7fctXxT5rt6gWMHtBWkzM0wggV5nBgAZdODXn1afV44YcXPL91Kuek4eFsQivdJezcweZ-NnjyzSns8qmM1b85O_syEiDtM3FJuYgs12drSNCgb0zbvIgz/s400/20200425_160507.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmAui9TZtjXeOMSXuQZr455mMzOBwQY64d_M6E9De_W0VHR8AR9GNqkqUHNixNKc21mK-_uZ3pawEJKRZ2fTp2L_9jqJt6Sk2CRAC6z2uktRdojppSnK0TOxbRD2Cn9wDoxtcrPV_6W5Ti/s1600/20200425_160732.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmAui9TZtjXeOMSXuQZr455mMzOBwQY64d_M6E9De_W0VHR8AR9GNqkqUHNixNKc21mK-_uZ3pawEJKRZ2fTp2L_9jqJt6Sk2CRAC6z2uktRdojppSnK0TOxbRD2Cn9wDoxtcrPV_6W5Ti/s400/20200425_160732.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">In most pictures of these dresses, you will see the points of the original tube of fabric turned out but I prefer them turned in. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin6t12WPe18aYAaoHOcP8bdfrPsXpKCl7A09ns89AfytQIn8gwp-Rq1lwJAHbQY79Wub-wyk9ad8sWXoeL6YKYIk1vqW2Scl0wxwwEdvnLXEbvaLKTVUw3uYFq4TGkmy7DMUUZx51wBTuQ/s1600/20200425_160707.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin6t12WPe18aYAaoHOcP8bdfrPsXpKCl7A09ns89AfytQIn8gwp-Rq1lwJAHbQY79Wub-wyk9ad8sWXoeL6YKYIk1vqW2Scl0wxwwEdvnLXEbvaLKTVUw3uYFq4TGkmy7DMUUZx51wBTuQ/s400/20200425_160707.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnTVcn0Z1dHuLouhK2rHnOdTfWuK2KVzGKbzzSbXjzdpb0FIvTzN-JXIIIVA6CKpD1U6isYZKQpzzs-ph7LwhcXWcFsJkItzIXxeYzismZT8gU8ZY9B3bmupYGRlgsCeofX7_DppsoOmTh/s1600/20200425_160539.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnTVcn0Z1dHuLouhK2rHnOdTfWuK2KVzGKbzzSbXjzdpb0FIvTzN-JXIIIVA6CKpD1U6isYZKQpzzs-ph7LwhcXWcFsJkItzIXxeYzismZT8gU8ZY9B3bmupYGRlgsCeofX7_DppsoOmTh/s400/20200425_160539.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE6hZ6vLchkOi3mwffaKmFPTD98ExVlYIHFy8rN0BFQlX0ViH6CQLrNmTXd55-v32a1A36uqbAeuIts32QDIKm60n_SVgohyDlctsByj-sW4uH_j2PJ39UMfWFYveyXnpb2qBuve3z1CJ5/s1600/20200425_160649.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE6hZ6vLchkOi3mwffaKmFPTD98ExVlYIHFy8rN0BFQlX0ViH6CQLrNmTXd55-v32a1A36uqbAeuIts32QDIKm60n_SVgohyDlctsByj-sW4uH_j2PJ39UMfWFYveyXnpb2qBuve3z1CJ5/s400/20200425_160649.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">It looks the part but it's not really wearable because it has quite seriously too much skirt. In part, that is my fault because I made that long, curved connection between the bodice pieces. That became an insanely long </span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">side seam...</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKXKhLoZf0cffGfinMXiz2x5zx0cb8rQ0RXOUF2AZmDxw-mx0nNU-TV72YsNAerQmVTK7Itii5fc39aCW-STPXJsGi9AZek6GvleMjDFNWVWkJLoTLuOewMmdLVaQKa2i2SIVhYevhsXwa/s1600/20200425_160805.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKXKhLoZf0cffGfinMXiz2x5zx0cb8rQ0RXOUF2AZmDxw-mx0nNU-TV72YsNAerQmVTK7Itii5fc39aCW-STPXJsGi9AZek6GvleMjDFNWVWkJLoTLuOewMmdLVaQKa2i2SIVhYevhsXwa/s400/20200425_160805.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">And of course, because the skirt is such a complicated, interconnected thing, you can't just cut it down or hem it up.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">After these dresses, I've started doing some quarter-size tests with different arrangements of holes and bodice pieces. I'll show you those later.</span></div>
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Laurianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16602295642057814667noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7553172421381359137.post-68963571638445442792020-04-27T22:01:00.000+02:002020-04-27T22:01:09.772+02:00in 2020<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Hello there! </span><div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I haven't even looked at my blog for quite a while but I had to look at the last post here to realize just how long that while was... There are several reasons, some of them even good ones but I won't go into that right now. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">At the moment, I have a bit more time for things like blogging for the same reason many of you will have a bit more time on your hands right now: Covid 19. I would guess that is also the reason why my dormant little blog gained some new followers over the past month. So, I thought it might be time for a modest re-start. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">As I have told before, I live in the Netherlands. Here, we are not in complete lockdown but schools, sports facilities, restaurants and many non-essential businesses are closed. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Since my current jobs are those of textile teacher at a fashion trade school and route setter at a local climbing gym, my work has pretty much stopped. We try and do a bit of online teaching but fabrics need to be handled to be understood... On the other hand, the school has teamed up with a hospital nearby for the production of facemasks. Using specialist materials are carefully controlled construction methods, we make masks which are suitable for hospital use. Volunteers from the school (some students but mostly teachers) and the hospital work on this together but never with many of us at the same time because we also have to keep our distance.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">So, that takes up a fair bit of my time too. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">As for blogging, I don't think I will pose for a lot of pictures now but I thought I could show you what I'm working on at the moment. And do the occasional tutorial. I was thinking about showing you how to make my favorite retro-style t-shirt/sweater pattern using a normal, fitted, t-shirt pattern as a sloper. It's not difficult and I love this thing so much I have made six versions so far and I'm planning more as we speak... To be fair, I think I made the first one in the winter of 2018/19 but I still love it!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Other than that, I'm open to suggestions. What would you like to see from me for your sewing inspiration? </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Sewing tips (assuming I have any which aren't all over the web yet)? </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Vintage pattern tutorials? By which I mean actual "draft like this" instructions from vintage magazines. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Do you want to talk Pattern Magic and other unusual pattern making techniques? In fact, I will definitely talk about one unusual pattern making technique soon but if I know I'm not the only one who likes that sort of thing, I will elaborate about it. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Or do you prefer more pattern tutorials (for whole garment or for details) which are also suitable if you don't have (much) experience with pattern making? </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I won't promise to deliver everything anyone asks for though...</span></div>
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Laurianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16602295642057814667noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7553172421381359137.post-17004202468363098292017-08-27T20:17:00.001+02:002017-08-27T20:17:38.149+02:00An actual bikini!<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">So, I ended up waiting for pictures again. And last week I ended up being very busy. In fact, I already know the coming month will be a very busy one. I will still try to keep up the blogging but I don't expect I will be able to do more than one post a week. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">At least I now have pictures from two more things I made during the summer holiday from my teaching job.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">In the <a href="http://petitmainsauvage.blogspot.nl/2017/08/a-bathing-suit.html" target="_blank">swimsuit post</a>, I told you I was inspired to try and make more swimwear, in different styles. And that I had to wait for new swimwear elastic to be delivered. This is what I made once I got my hands on that elastic. A bikini!</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC0U2JEYc9KfXsorBZt9xllbUxiRuL7imhvKUMAXubcbjiA7hvH89wjJn4WWIJfoGZK8PYBF7fpLj2y87w22uX-NAdHYdP9tqKbBwqaNVw2MqbNbrv78qhiJ269ikrhAdYL0GT0ZPZYbLU/s1600/zij1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="860" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC0U2JEYc9KfXsorBZt9xllbUxiRuL7imhvKUMAXubcbjiA7hvH89wjJn4WWIJfoGZK8PYBF7fpLj2y87w22uX-NAdHYdP9tqKbBwqaNVw2MqbNbrv78qhiJ269ikrhAdYL0GT0ZPZYbLU/s400/zij1.jpg" width="268" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">My sister bought this fabric, lycra with a print of reeds or leaves of grass on a background which is a gradient from black to white via turquoise, years ago. A year or so later, she gave it to me. The colours suit me, so I thought it would be nice to put it to good use now.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLgtUqMi87zN1sm_uURc5jK47uHM2SCpHfXqaQLefVQSVLZL0hpQBjvtLTtKPTWgDd8q-MBwvzcKQcvgMkiryl8BxQE8UjEEfNWmFcH4PDKqkba-8G75zZIWLfoH7khqSfHUNOf3d2rk44/s1600/achter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="860" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLgtUqMi87zN1sm_uURc5jK47uHM2SCpHfXqaQLefVQSVLZL0hpQBjvtLTtKPTWgDd8q-MBwvzcKQcvgMkiryl8BxQE8UjEEfNWmFcH4PDKqkba-8G75zZIWLfoH7khqSfHUNOf3d2rk44/s400/achter.jpg" width="268" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I used the darker parts of the gradient for the bottom and the lighter ones for the top. I didn't pay to much attention to the placement of the, very random, print. Maybe I could have made the cups look better if I had, but I'm not so sure about that.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3AqYGLZckpBd88irN9ZqKxdyhXL41AO_sFwrXuu26jXeD0z-vMeblc_YvJoFflkG7pdO5ji3bujBHSfIlHl7jOi8LlFxLi7MRLNuSl5eZbs6kSwhiEtYTbjVguPGpHvZFxJ7ihZaIioW0/s1600/broekje.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="947" data-original-width="1280" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3AqYGLZckpBd88irN9ZqKxdyhXL41AO_sFwrXuu26jXeD0z-vMeblc_YvJoFflkG7pdO5ji3bujBHSfIlHl7jOi8LlFxLi7MRLNuSl5eZbs6kSwhiEtYTbjVguPGpHvZFxJ7ihZaIioW0/s320/broekje.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">For the bottoms, I used the same low-leg cut as one the swimsuit. I picked a nice height for the top by playing around with the top edge of high waisted underwear I had made before. Which didn't turn out well. I was too low and I cut off the top edge elastic and put on a wide-ish band of the fabric instead.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9x64YBWaB6bE3_F234IvJgl49X6CWGKFxPdpCOXW4j-rkrxE39PJi9w1mrXfSPMwOJ7H1NSXcklFap-KdWJr-L1eiPnxq7WrbPG0Dq2RU8ZDDFt19l3p70fBUKwNQEAyvbtnWUPKPVJ-V/s1600/top-voor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="855" data-original-width="1280" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9x64YBWaB6bE3_F234IvJgl49X6CWGKFxPdpCOXW4j-rkrxE39PJi9w1mrXfSPMwOJ7H1NSXcklFap-KdWJr-L1eiPnxq7WrbPG0Dq2RU8ZDDFt19l3p70fBUKwNQEAyvbtnWUPKPVJ-V/s320/top-voor.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmKRCycTredEwMYyiuqRwXSgE2uo_ltcjcsQaLfMQ4noG8lNLPMZXZ_pCsfafGisOlogO9fM5qJxq1Vsr9_Bdm2jna_VkLasfb0QUQtVEjRtH-v97_SBWip8uYBiP1RqbK-3_XddJdQluL/s1600/top-achter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="796" data-original-width="1280" height="199" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmKRCycTredEwMYyiuqRwXSgE2uo_ltcjcsQaLfMQ4noG8lNLPMZXZ_pCsfafGisOlogO9fM5qJxq1Vsr9_Bdm2jna_VkLasfb0QUQtVEjRtH-v97_SBWip8uYBiP1RqbK-3_XddJdQluL/s320/top-achter.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">For the top, I used my tried-and-tested bra pattern with the horizontally seamed cup. This works as a strapless bra but here I added halter straps (which are not very supportive but they don't have to be). </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAspAgzkTl1PGy_6JTTFdFIiOjaiJeX8u8uotupqh3rsWJXijoJyG1Cu_fqmgSuxSXWqSajVmy9W6JmgcyUNMT0O1nrgXKOTNj0PE6-oW11IEqxd0ttYkIqZGkrPTyN7nqBLbIniELnFAr/s1600/zij-achter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="860" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAspAgzkTl1PGy_6JTTFdFIiOjaiJeX8u8uotupqh3rsWJXijoJyG1Cu_fqmgSuxSXWqSajVmy9W6JmgcyUNMT0O1nrgXKOTNj0PE6-oW11IEqxd0ttYkIqZGkrPTyN7nqBLbIniELnFAr/s400/zij-achter.jpg" width="268" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I made things more difficult for myself by using an alternative method to apply the elastic at the edges. For this, you sew the elastic to the edge on the inside and then under stitch only through lining and elastic. The good thing about this is that you avoid extra stitching on the outside of the garment. The downside is that it is fiddly, takes more careful planning and handling and even with that, it can still go horribly wrong if the amounts of stretch of fashion fabric and lining are too different. In this case, the lining had a lot more vertical stretch which caused all sorts of problems with the bottoms. Fortunately, I could fix those when I had to cut off the top edge anyway. To avoid more drama, I stitched the elastic on the top edge of the wings of the top in the normal way.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5GAbH8tAMyXpq3xqgn7ZXhxY6QPK0YxPLibGxm8x94XDJniIfvLJmBOXBlqX_yn7GlSyDIDgYX4WAovhkl-5DjHd_zlUTTdUSC6umwrgszq4XVGRNxG1MHL4_vz8XWfgSerGKGOCTpTb4/s1600/zij-voor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="860" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5GAbH8tAMyXpq3xqgn7ZXhxY6QPK0YxPLibGxm8x94XDJniIfvLJmBOXBlqX_yn7GlSyDIDgYX4WAovhkl-5DjHd_zlUTTdUSC6umwrgszq4XVGRNxG1MHL4_vz8XWfgSerGKGOCTpTb4/s400/zij-voor.jpg" width="268" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">So, now I have a bikini! With a foam cupped top no less. I may still make another set of swimwear: the most practical one, a bikini which would work well under a wetsuit. In fact, I already tried to make bottoms for those but in that case, I had issues with a not sufficiently stretchy lining and I haven't tried again yet.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">P.S. There's just nothing like trying to show off a bikini in pictures to make you feel REALY self-conscious! ;)</span>Laurianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16602295642057814667noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7553172421381359137.post-78743738454332663112017-08-16T20:28:00.003+02:002017-08-16T20:28:51.996+02:00a nice little skirt<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">And now from the sublime to the ridiculous... Well, not really. Just from fabulous to very simple fabric, from quirky chique to casual and from simple but precise tailoring to an easy fit created with unusual cutting.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOxze7tKT1ZImH5VCIVQDT5VwiNj057Usq1Gk73tvoTvSgsb9eTaTX8ZRGpGoknM1f7sd2rtSUHa-skwklQK_tjC5xNxRiZt8If6d1A3dcyqCb9obaXeI6cMshUwILtgROi3eD4BV90GSW/s1600/voor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOxze7tKT1ZImH5VCIVQDT5VwiNj057Usq1Gk73tvoTvSgsb9eTaTX8ZRGpGoknM1f7sd2rtSUHa-skwklQK_tjC5xNxRiZt8If6d1A3dcyqCb9obaXeI6cMshUwILtgROi3eD4BV90GSW/s400/voor.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">This was the last item from my piled-up photoshoot. You can kind of tell from the pictures. I didn't really take it serious anymore, which is probably a good thing. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">After finishing the African wax print dress, I decided to make something from a left-over bit of black twill (I think I used it for jackets for E before). It was just a small piece so the only options were a shortish skirt or maybe shorts. I chose a skirt.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Of course, a casual little skirt needs pockets. And this fabric is very jeans-like and I know from experience that the colour fades quite a bit after washing. I wanted a design which would suit the material... </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">After a bit of sketching, I came up with a this pattern, built up from curved panels. It's a short skirt (for me), a bit of an A-line, with pockets, a faced waistline and a center back zipper (it's a bit wrinkly because I had been wearing it for a while).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">For the past few years, most of my skirts were either at least half-circle or narrow and past the knee. All very pretty and feminine but not great for every occasion. I still love those skirts but I guess doing more sports is starting to influence my style a little bit. I could not have made a longer skirt from this piece of fabric but I also think I needed a casual little skirt like this in my wardrobe.</span></div>
Laurianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16602295642057814667noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7553172421381359137.post-76418922924793739162017-08-13T21:00:00.000+02:002017-08-13T21:00:21.356+02:00Clean lines and twisting vines<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">After the bit of fun I showed you in the previous post, I went on with making a proper dress. In fact, you have already seen a bit of it: This is the dress which has the <a href="http://petitmainsauvage.blogspot.nl/2017/07/a-little-trick.html" target="_blank">invisible zipper and the facing</a>...</span><div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Early this year, I bought some fabric in a gorgeous African wax print. This one: </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Twisting orange vines, outlined in black, on a blue background. A great print and colours which actually suit me (I love African wax prints but usually, the colours are much to intense for my pale skin and hair).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The print is pretty big and runs along the width of the fabric. So, I quickly decided I would have to cut whatever I was going to make, on the crossgrain. But unlike with the other wax print I used before, this one could be a dress on its own (because those colours could work for me). </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">At first, I was thinking about a simple skirt. Then, a dress with a full skirt. But when I was really getting serious about cutting into this lovely fabric, I realized it would probably work best as a very simple sheath dress. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Oddly enough, I have never made one of those before. I always felt I somehow didn't have the right kind of curves for the style. Now, I just decided to give it a go.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I drafted the pattern based on my normal sloper and sewed up a muslin. One with a zipper, so I could have a good look at the all-over fit.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">When I tried that on, it was clearly too large. My normal sloper has a certain amount of ease added to it which works really well for a lot of garments. Not for this kind of dress though. I took out about 1 to 1.5 cm at the side seams.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I ended up with a pattern with vertical waist darts, two at the back, one at the front (on pattern pieces, so the dress has double that amount), a center back seam with the zipper in it, bust darts from the side seam, fairly wide but high neckline, slightly narrowed shoulders (compared to a sloper which was made to have sleeves added to it) and a back vent (which doesn't look right in these pictures but that is because I was sitting before and E doesn't notice "details" like that...).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I normally only do very close fits on strapless dresses but for this style, it seemed like the only way to go (the first muslin just looked frumpy).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I took great care with cutting the pieces from the fabric. I wanted the centers of the clusters of vines along center front and center back. This meant I could not cut in the most economical way. Especially getting part of the back seam to match up was a bit of challenge.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">When I first tried it on, I was very happy with my decision to go for darts rather than princess seams or anything like that. Yes, the darts interrupt the print but somehow that hardly attracts any attention. And that big print is just SO lovely...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I finished the neckline and armholes with an all-in-one facing in simple black cotton. The treatment of the bottom of the dress is a bit different. Normally, I would hem, often by hand to make the stitches invisible. In this case I didn't. When fabrics like this one are put to use by African ladies, the selvedge is often left on display, usually at the hemline. I kind of like the way that looks here and decided to do the same.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Because African wax print fabric is nearly always sold in pieces of 6 yards (yes yards. We always use metric here in the Netherlands but this fabric is sold in yards) I still have quite a bit left so I'm sure I will use it again.</span></div>
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Laurianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16602295642057814667noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7553172421381359137.post-30653596412675878442017-08-11T11:28:00.000+02:002017-08-11T11:28:21.538+02:00Cheap frills<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">As I mentioned before, making a swimsuit I like made me want to try out more swimwear ideas. However, I had used up almost all my swimwear elastic on said swimsuit. I only had two odd little pieces left over. So, I had to order more and wait for it to arrive. Of course I also had other ideas but one lazy weekend afternoon (after a climbing session in the morning), I didn't feel like working on anything complicated or serious. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Instead, I started digging through my stash until I came across a piece of fabric which had been there for years. Transparant black viscose/rayon and just about a meter of it. What was past me thinking? It would be a good material for a loose fitting blouse but that would take 1.5 meter...</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Anyway, this time I decided the fabric would be perfect for a very silly kind of project. A project which would also allow me to use up some notions I bought way back when I started sewing (I must have had "gothic glamour" on my mind back then). I hardly ever use lace or anything frilly anymore but when started sewing, black lace really appealed to me. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I was going to make a neglige (or whatever you call it). I made a very simple, roughly A-line pattern for the body. No overlap at the front because of fabric limitations. I laid it out on the fabric and improvised a sleeve shape on what was left over. Basically, the sleeves are just part-circular ruffles stitched to the armholes.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; text-align: center;">It was a bit odd to pose in a swimsuit, but this is probably a bit worse... Luckily, E was there to make me laugh a lot!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Of the frills available in my stash, one really stood out for this project: a double layer of ruffled organza ribbon, about 4 cm wide. That's just one step behind feather trim!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I really wanted to use it along all the edges but I didn't have enough. So, I settled for neckline and front edge only.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Construction was very easy: I used French seams for all the straight seams and serged the seam allowance on the armholes. Then, I used the rolled hem setting on my serger/overlocker for all the edges. The trim was then sewn to that edge by machine.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgow5o-cCqjg6E-KwEEttTydCBSRzZjvFQGmSKlS0qssrNOVBr9eTE37ekgiji6efm3iGQ58_X9yw9JZMYAMlq25uOsXK50PpL-aHJEXKNCrJooj7lYV0J3LvFgWUThPmmMUNN3sugysuGM/s1600/open.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgow5o-cCqjg6E-KwEEttTydCBSRzZjvFQGmSKlS0qssrNOVBr9eTE37ekgiji6efm3iGQ58_X9yw9JZMYAMlq25uOsXK50PpL-aHJEXKNCrJooj7lYV0J3LvFgWUThPmmMUNN3sugysuGM/s400/open.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Initially, I added big straps made from the fabric itself to close the whole thing at the chest. It didn't look good at all. So, I took them off and put on bits of thin organza-and-satin ribbon instead. Much better.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">This has to be one of the silliest things I have ever sewn but it was fun! </span>Laurianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16602295642057814667noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7553172421381359137.post-81644686438895157182017-08-09T13:38:00.000+02:002017-08-09T13:38:08.446+02:00a bathing suit!<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Of course, this is a garment which belongs in a different setting than my house. I opted for taking pictures in front of that bit of white wall in the living room because the other usual angles would just look more out of place. Obviously, it would have been better to take the trouble of going to the beach and really show this thing off in its natural habitat.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">However, I didn't have a lot of time and I had several things to take pictures of. And although it is a bit too warm for that dress in the previous post, it's not exactly beach weather either. So for now, pictures in the living room will have to do.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Bw9lrBlLjUDS29n_DNt4cvE8WpMBW36MQAptkKtQp61zy_p6io_ionsGyMSfb6q_e7hmAoHnzdrbPOEbDydFzULT7UvVFxNCJ69Ne01XM5hz3Z7iMErx6vKpi2arjGphoig1dBO57Q5q/s1600/voor3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Bw9lrBlLjUDS29n_DNt4cvE8WpMBW36MQAptkKtQp61zy_p6io_ionsGyMSfb6q_e7hmAoHnzdrbPOEbDydFzULT7UvVFxNCJ69Ne01XM5hz3Z7iMErx6vKpi2arjGphoig1dBO57Q5q/s400/voor3.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I made a bathing suit again! Many years ago, I tried that <a href="http://petitmainsauvage.blogspot.co.uk/2010/07/oh-lala-lets-go-to-beach.html" target="_blank">for the first time</a>. Back then, I had just started to draft lingerie patterns and this was my first attempt at swimwear. I was really ambitious and wanted to make a 1950's suit with a skirt front and bra-style cups. I had never successfully made a bra before, so I chickened out of inserting underwires. I still think it looks nice in the pictures but it had issues, some of which seriously compromised wearing comfort. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Then, years later, I made some <a href="http://petitmainsauvage.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/bikini-after-all.html" target="_blank">much simpler pieces</a>. The bandeau top and high-waisted panties can still be used, the other top has always had issues. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">To those, I added a highly utilitarian, but not so good-looking, <a href="http://petitmainsauvage.blogspot.co.uk/2015/07/practical-swimwear.html" target="_blank">sporty bikini-top</a> a year later. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYpogwei-32irXnxTPW5FN-3ElxyfBw2glvYeppT70oSSi6gjW-hH2rDVJa_sJF-xIxnsf1SJ2SJNNTJjj2IFhiXSu0kphWwsl4FKFvjnSDngJs1RWtf6M5lr98yz0gm495DDsPo7jIshK/s1600/zij.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYpogwei-32irXnxTPW5FN-3ElxyfBw2glvYeppT70oSSi6gjW-hH2rDVJa_sJF-xIxnsf1SJ2SJNNTJjj2IFhiXSu0kphWwsl4FKFvjnSDngJs1RWtf6M5lr98yz0gm495DDsPo7jIshK/s400/zij.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The truth is, I don't actually need a lot of swimwear. I've never enjoyed sun bathing (which is likely a reason why my very pale skin is quite healthy...) and I'm not a huge fan of swimming either. I do like the occasional spa day (for which you don't always need a bathing suit) and, when on holiday, I love water-y pursuits like rafting and, especially, canyoning. So, to be honest, I only really need a simple piece of swimwear which doesn't cause issues when you have to put on a wetsuit over it. But where's the fun in just making useful things?</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif6_og9fDgb3EMAAwR18ICJQSPmKOyrFSxt-y0AVkuOfzIepYna-KNtNfK7Ve-UPfeDubpk_7S4AHQ4OWdww_jK5mk9sft7D7jR1s6Ug-Ll9Hh5yiRrk6Cd9kNztUZC-CwJFCj8zcfnQiU/s1600/voor4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif6_og9fDgb3EMAAwR18ICJQSPmKOyrFSxt-y0AVkuOfzIepYna-KNtNfK7Ve-UPfeDubpk_7S4AHQ4OWdww_jK5mk9sft7D7jR1s6Ug-Ll9Hh5yiRrk6Cd9kNztUZC-CwJFCj8zcfnQiU/s400/voor4.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi35pmwJYwU1ngIYEnA8FDG0lxtc-PVDFiGM-sj35ELaHJHn1pu_zAHxJVCJuQ6ur-659UCcCMk8Hti72FEj1ZinrGMCZTJ6avEJZb4uLu0NSTtKj-nLULp3Iy_PPL_aYVgn9619kYJ9mvU/s1600/achter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi35pmwJYwU1ngIYEnA8FDG0lxtc-PVDFiGM-sj35ELaHJHn1pu_zAHxJVCJuQ6ur-659UCcCMk8Hti72FEj1ZinrGMCZTJ6avEJZb4uLu0NSTtKj-nLULp3Iy_PPL_aYVgn9619kYJ9mvU/s400/achter.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I thought it was high time to try my hand at swimwear again. And I would start of with what would just be my second-ever one-piece. Of course, the </span><a href="http://petitmainsauvage.blogspot.co.uk/2016/09/that-bodysuit.html" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;" target="_blank">bodysuits</a><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"> I made last year really helped to fine-tune the fit of my sloper-for-lycra. </span></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">For the design, I took inspiration from a RTW swimsuit I tried on years ago (and didn't buy, because of a fit issue). I went for asymmetry: One shoulder, and a big cut-out at that side. In retrospect, I guess the cut-out on the RTW suit was probably smaller but I like how this turned out.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The leg-shape is the one I also used for the bodysuit and some of my retro-style panties.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh82JJlN8BusLJkiee58XpszNhhjOCVXvek6ILKiHdzSRRq3iPIq_dsorFoQO399r39lB0N-RsSjA0Ja3dij_PL56rUwlbDDVBC7uxMunBrVh5aFg9nPQPvHYgIA8-UvKgDOSXfYeTz8ADA/s1600/voorzij2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh82JJlN8BusLJkiee58XpszNhhjOCVXvek6ILKiHdzSRRq3iPIq_dsorFoQO399r39lB0N-RsSjA0Ja3dij_PL56rUwlbDDVBC7uxMunBrVh5aFg9nPQPvHYgIA8-UvKgDOSXfYeTz8ADA/s400/voorzij2.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I was planning to use black lycra, but ended up going for this dark red-brown from my stash instead. I'm glad I did, this colour really suits me.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj69FXNSPtMZj2-HnZM0gmkTp6iWhu0PE_FtDP1ITnJGzBE8Scl39046BAPxNg7ujOvtDeJnm7cK0zL-T4-nPB0qNT_vF2OimKhCas3G6J6V_Z2pDu1OVGlI2Pw6eEIBU5uztbjHdUgbcFf/s1600/voor2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj69FXNSPtMZj2-HnZM0gmkTp6iWhu0PE_FtDP1ITnJGzBE8Scl39046BAPxNg7ujOvtDeJnm7cK0zL-T4-nPB0qNT_vF2OimKhCas3G6J6V_Z2pDu1OVGlI2Pw6eEIBU5uztbjHdUgbcFf/s400/voor2.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">All in all, it's certainly not your average bathing suit but can function as one. It can be pulled on like most other bathing suits and it stays put. Although the cut-out is not revealing anything you wouldn't see in a bikini, I still think it looks kind of sexy. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I think I'm going to enjoy this thing but it whet my appetite to sew more swimwear and different styles and methods of construction.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"> </span>Laurianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16602295642057814667noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7553172421381359137.post-91579808932823504212017-08-06T20:29:00.001+02:002017-08-06T20:29:38.586+02:00The retro wrap Dress<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Ok, it took me a long time to finally take pictures of the things I have sewn over the past weeks. For some reason, I didn't feel like posing for a couple of weeks. At last, I bit the bullet. Yesterday, I did my hair, even applied make-up and made good use of E's presence and willingness to take pictures. So, now I have four more things to show you (each in its own post). At least, I think it was four... No, five.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I'm going in chronological order. So, first up is this wrap dress:</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh453RPv3J9FalR-7LfNvXvFu_XKKRd81O5GmhtV4ZmuttgMe0Eg9MZvQHU0nQDaecahhkv8xJgjami88E4y_tG8e_6PZWnqJfcWUqHQc72fV4C4pDlTATrbVNMNk6DVSsfUw_I_Okd5an7/s1600/voor-zij.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh453RPv3J9FalR-7LfNvXvFu_XKKRd81O5GmhtV4ZmuttgMe0Eg9MZvQHU0nQDaecahhkv8xJgjami88E4y_tG8e_6PZWnqJfcWUqHQc72fV4C4pDlTATrbVNMNk6DVSsfUw_I_Okd5an7/s400/voor-zij.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; text-align: center;">It is made from a nice but not-so-stretchy dark blue cotton jersey. The fabric has been in my stash for quite a while and I used to have very ambitious plans for it. Violent-like draping. Something along that line.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">In the end, I didn't try that. It would be a lot of work for a not very practical garment and I might even find out that the fabric was actually a bit to bulky for gathered bits (as jersey so often is).</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Instead, the fairly large amount of fabric (close to 4 meters, I think) would be perfect for another idea I had in mind of a while. This dress. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNhqApODMy1EKRBYcG0_UbgoF6XVkwjqu6ck91AYfyElIrs2PmQv8Tc6zpbCfk-nGfrrpHvIh9pUIUKjV584DsCYWiBmUfs19baNxlQ6bLRQUE6OutSpEXLAv6sSgnnCncoKIsfBY5AOsV/s1600/draai.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNhqApODMy1EKRBYcG0_UbgoF6XVkwjqu6ck91AYfyElIrs2PmQv8Tc6zpbCfk-nGfrrpHvIh9pUIUKjV584DsCYWiBmUfs19baNxlQ6bLRQUE6OutSpEXLAv6sSgnnCncoKIsfBY5AOsV/s400/draai.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">By the way, I know my decision to take pictures on our tiny balcony has resulted in some lighting issues. There is backlight in all images which doesn't show the details very well. That is why I am including these. They are from the end of the shoot when E was goofing around and making me laugh but they show a bit more detail on the dress:</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR-Gh5xtQD8j5iy-Hjc-H6EZ2sylyzRPfTso1ftMuCNg0yuttgkyh-0-5kpwwsS4SleoCX2-EOFpwjMl_eAZJ7YgBj8-ZGTbULCoQuKyattgtZH6fS9V07WRZlGCmWUkdq7z2O9FCffu9T/s1600/lichter1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR-Gh5xtQD8j5iy-Hjc-H6EZ2sylyzRPfTso1ftMuCNg0yuttgkyh-0-5kpwwsS4SleoCX2-EOFpwjMl_eAZJ7YgBj8-ZGTbULCoQuKyattgtZH6fS9V07WRZlGCmWUkdq7z2O9FCffu9T/s400/lichter1.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGGylSk1jD2PEmrnA1XJgFvpxB2r-UBjoiUpxcuNVDaH32PjoEUttiyZak3sXQ2wG9DMdCfrByJRkYC_rgAyYAWN_DcBRVyfo1ZgzpvhZWdj1BxYwf8Lq5hIh4BTElxZpfmnEyuIquz6fi/s1600/lichter2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGGylSk1jD2PEmrnA1XJgFvpxB2r-UBjoiUpxcuNVDaH32PjoEUttiyZak3sXQ2wG9DMdCfrByJRkYC_rgAyYAWN_DcBRVyfo1ZgzpvhZWdj1BxYwf8Lq5hIh4BTElxZpfmnEyuIquz6fi/s400/lichter2.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The design of this dress is based on a top I made years ago:</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjECWKy9I4yrjvVpCSEQ1bloznqV52eewveOHVNB0h0CyMvwXNyW02RSYE5YPu4NtGelxmI0teStB6WyYAE92ni6kXI99bgEGXTj4uL9qvHO873iujkwGN89b5ZMeoDqP1o-0c-atNFvKak/s1600/1voor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="376" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjECWKy9I4yrjvVpCSEQ1bloznqV52eewveOHVNB0h0CyMvwXNyW02RSYE5YPu4NtGelxmI0teStB6WyYAE92ni6kXI99bgEGXTj4uL9qvHO873iujkwGN89b5ZMeoDqP1o-0c-atNFvKak/s400/1voor.jpg" width="235" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The original blog post is <a href="http://petitmainsauvage.blogspot.nl/2014/08/the-retro-wrap.html" target="_blank">here</a>. I made it using <a href="https://studiofaro-wellsuited.blogspot.nl/2013/08/pattern-puzzle-retro-wrap.html" target="_blank">this tutorial from Studio Faro</a> (another Pattern Puzzle), which was in turn based on a vintage pattern illustration.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Even back then, in 2014, I realized how easy it would be to turn the top into a dress by adding a circle skirt to it. However, I thought the blouse-y body wouldn't look very goor with a full skirt. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">After that, I didn't think about it for years. Until some point in May when I put on the top again. This time, I started pulling at it to try and find a way to take it in a bit. This top is made from a rather unusual pattern shape so adjusting the size is not straightforward. But I found an easy way to do it.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVe_GGqL34aX64aOxGq0qd_UV194jRXLy0q7SI4cRWrSr96Xm9imANpe13wRAgymvvu814tUzSAd1EW1mXpa_AZjANd4TQdMDt-KPIPbggbQ5L6_fD0sDgEtJCeeGTMU9UNA8mFmrcmh0W/s1600/RedPointTailor_diagram1measure2wm.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="336" data-original-width="208" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVe_GGqL34aX64aOxGq0qd_UV194jRXLy0q7SI4cRWrSr96Xm9imANpe13wRAgymvvu814tUzSAd1EW1mXpa_AZjANd4TQdMDt-KPIPbggbQ5L6_fD0sDgEtJCeeGTMU9UNA8mFmrcmh0W/s400/RedPointTailor_diagram1measure2wm.png" width="247" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">This is the pattern as draft it according to the instructions on the well-suited blog (I believe it's supposed to be a size 38, which is a bit too big for me). My top was made exactly like this, just with a fairly short and narrow strap because I didn't have a lot of fabric. When constructed, the top has a center back seam at the bottom half of your back and one long horizontal seam which runs over the bottom ends of your shoulder blades and along the sleeves (unlike for most pattern puzzles, the construction of this top is also shown in the Studio Faro post). It is that last seam which holds the key to adjusting the fit! </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuF0agj7h_c0Hn-pmLUtNkxYoQL4vKJUUDMvHryUZy6ysgE9tm-hLs-RPuRUWVkHEBR1hhmjPyngZF4np80Vpp3b3o91rhk1c5gaMjVa_VzfMp8K-7bX-i17372N02Bb56BaJ79gYepMFM/s1600/Schermafbeelding+2017-08-06+om+19.42.06.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="348" data-original-width="218" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuF0agj7h_c0Hn-pmLUtNkxYoQL4vKJUUDMvHryUZy6ysgE9tm-hLs-RPuRUWVkHEBR1hhmjPyngZF4np80Vpp3b3o91rhk1c5gaMjVa_VzfMp8K-7bX-i17372N02Bb56BaJ79gYepMFM/s400/Schermafbeelding+2017-08-06+om+19.42.06.png" width="248" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I ended up cutting the pattern like you can see here, along the solid red lines. I tried it out by pinning my existing top and ended up taking almost 10 cm from both the top and bottom piece, tapering to nothing in sleeve seams. This results in a more fitted bodice and less draping at the neckline (without losing all of it). In my opinion, much more flattering.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Of course, the fit of a this thing would always depend on your shape and size, so if you are interested in making something like this, I would heartily recommend making the top first and going from there. I believe there is also a post about drafting it in a bigger size somewhere on the same blog, but I'm not sure (that might also be for the other retro wrap top).</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpF509YaRHkKnsAzSIQkdTRM9mTSGo70YwMGEa9UXNpKJLzi_Ok3VBeoc321arJQ9dlp6YVpx9W3R4x-irj51_IIplExTxILhKPUwSUwrbkGVCqv_68jQKHrX3rNwqKfgAODF6I-abMnzR/s1600/armen.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpF509YaRHkKnsAzSIQkdTRM9mTSGo70YwMGEa9UXNpKJLzi_Ok3VBeoc321arJQ9dlp6YVpx9W3R4x-irj51_IIplExTxILhKPUwSUwrbkGVCqv_68jQKHrX3rNwqKfgAODF6I-abMnzR/s400/armen.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Anyway, for this version I made a waistband which is 8 cm wide and was made from separate pieces for the in- and outside. This was needed so it would have seams at the top and bottom to encase both bodice and skirt. I also cut its length in two pieces to allow for a hole at the side to pull one of the ties through. And I made the ties in different lengths so the right place to tie the dress would be at the end of the front overlap, not at the back. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The skirt is simply a full circle, cut without seams (the fabric was wide enough to make that possible). Because this is a true wrap dress, part of the fullness of the skirt goes into creating a safe amount of overlap.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL5mCwVATTt6UkyXy96bKhbhY5sQdk-5Docnks2BQcyKuSlmVg8M4TNskvvD_0lYfcsfmpV64dNQjL8-Xsz2AU2CZU7gfNEcF3KBUGjpZSSfKLnle_8V76n70SH6SpLqBhxnnIeVpngCLd/s1600/achter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL5mCwVATTt6UkyXy96bKhbhY5sQdk-5Docnks2BQcyKuSlmVg8M4TNskvvD_0lYfcsfmpV64dNQjL8-Xsz2AU2CZU7gfNEcF3KBUGjpZSSfKLnle_8V76n70SH6SpLqBhxnnIeVpngCLd/s400/achter.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">It's a bit too warm to wear this dress now, but I am pretty happy with it and I'm sure I will wear it a lot. I'm not sure it still looks very 1950's. The top does, but something about the lines of the skirt in this flow-y fabric makes me think of the 1970's. Not that I care. It suits me, that's much more important. </span>Laurianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16602295642057814667noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7553172421381359137.post-58281960624204985182017-07-26T21:34:00.002+02:002017-07-26T21:34:30.778+02:00A little trick...<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">... with a facing and an invisible zipper. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I am finally making a dress from a lovely African wax print that I couldn't resist buying earlier this year. When I was about to attach the facing, I realized this would be a great time to show you a little trick I had to find out for myself.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">It's about how to get a neat point where the top of the zipper and the neckline meet.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">It is possible that this technique is explained in lots of books on sewing technique. Books which I never bothered to read in their entirety. If you did, and all this is old hat to you, please ignore the rest of this post. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I found out about this when I was still doing wedding dress alterations. At the first store where I worked, a lot of the dresses came with invisible zippers which sometimes broke (standard strapless wedding dresses usually contain too many layers of fabric and are pulled on too tight to make invisible zippers a good idea) and then had to be replaced.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Whenever I took out one of those broken zippers, I noticed how neat and tidy those top points were. And so square! For all my careful zipper insertion, those points always came out a bit rounded because so much material was meeting there. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Gradually, I came to understand that the secret was all about planning ahead and making the right folds and the right stitches at the right time. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">This is how it is done (works for facings and linings):</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjj1ceTaZPqd2xX-oD86x0TRF6Zn14ciFgtKDvu79Cdk1mbwobw4bVmvV6NyYaUy7hmJs6ex-HKWIjQ5S9sL0L-acdyS8T86FDYmphclRsJLHvqA8gMGsVX0Q_fcbaI24pberdYM3Kacxx/s1600/1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjj1ceTaZPqd2xX-oD86x0TRF6Zn14ciFgtKDvu79Cdk1mbwobw4bVmvV6NyYaUy7hmJs6ex-HKWIjQ5S9sL0L-acdyS8T86FDYmphclRsJLHvqA8gMGsVX0Q_fcbaI24pberdYM3Kacxx/s400/1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Press back the center back seam allowances before you even start pinning the facing to the neckline. On the outside, you already attached the zipper so that pressed line is already there. Press a little more back on the facing (assuming both pattern pieces were the same width). Pin the neckline an stitch, STOPPING at the pressed line on the facing.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Press the neckline seam allowances. Clip them where necessary and press them first open and then to the wrong side of the garment. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">At the edge of the zipper, on both outside and facing, fold the neckline seam allowance down first and then fold the center back seam allowance over it. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgElZ1-02Kut49T2NMbNINhRJjWvZ2abiMLGuB2HlDOHghyBFFx4LBGRQJl49UYW0tMz13sW0iHq-sBx1Lr3JzHEPINMItIRZD1zDA2jWpFXTvm56KJ-TLPBPdNdJx1oYF7gFlDjP3CtV_9/s1600/3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgElZ1-02Kut49T2NMbNINhRJjWvZ2abiMLGuB2HlDOHghyBFFx4LBGRQJl49UYW0tMz13sW0iHq-sBx1Lr3JzHEPINMItIRZD1zDA2jWpFXTvm56KJ-TLPBPdNdJx1oYF7gFlDjP3CtV_9/s400/3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">This gives you edges without bits of seam allowance poking out along the center back. At this point, you could hand-stitch the facing to the zipper tape. I've done that for years. But you can do it by machine without messing up that nice corner.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA3SB4y6ZUGrNry-2PvuqnfY8Kj1FT4C3SL83mtzu4uDhn2AA6A04AjAbhWsVAkyk5amzeDsl3F2GqG163zgOcEhuEKSpfjTMiMz4-YNFxuauesdDYwK3yrZKVGWEEuoD97X2pZ5WLv93t/s1600/4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA3SB4y6ZUGrNry-2PvuqnfY8Kj1FT4C3SL83mtzu4uDhn2AA6A04AjAbhWsVAkyk5amzeDsl3F2GqG163zgOcEhuEKSpfjTMiMz4-YNFxuauesdDYwK3yrZKVGWEEuoD97X2pZ5WLv93t/s400/4.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Flip the whole thing inside out again and pin the pressed line on the facing to the zipper tape (make sure that fold arrangement at the top stays as it is).</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiukwxAQsM58Gg1_JE4zzapDgzsnIMpps9oS0pT3yRtwOTrJR7x1jMi8-4bOLU0_9YzFBpuZTzssjaysC1DP45QiJafyu0Rz_npMUEAbhspE-S_PfHQppEPjVm_mldbG6pbqc_EX9tuwyNf/s1600/5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiukwxAQsM58Gg1_JE4zzapDgzsnIMpps9oS0pT3yRtwOTrJR7x1jMi8-4bOLU0_9YzFBpuZTzssjaysC1DP45QiJafyu0Rz_npMUEAbhspE-S_PfHQppEPjVm_mldbG6pbqc_EX9tuwyNf/s320/5.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">At the other side, on the wrong side of the outside fabric, this should give you a little fold of excess fabric. That is what you want, it is the fabric which will cover the zipper teeth on the outside of the garment. Stitch where you pinned, stopping at the neckline stitching. It doesn't really matter whether or not you sew down the neckline seam allowance on the facing but leave the outside neckline seam allowance.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEnmcUrmg1xFgdONFrieRxc2hKoHccwYwnTT7DqTZmnqyZO_RkF0kQc5TVPK5U2HXXX-o00yoG5pVz5NygjJ5LdmAcbRtWjKm45Lzd82wZpFePxH5pahC-e2VL-e5Upg-i8OjBzlxDFQ1B/s1600/6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1075" data-original-width="1600" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEnmcUrmg1xFgdONFrieRxc2hKoHccwYwnTT7DqTZmnqyZO_RkF0kQc5TVPK5U2HXXX-o00yoG5pVz5NygjJ5LdmAcbRtWjKm45Lzd82wZpFePxH5pahC-e2VL-e5Upg-i8OjBzlxDFQ1B/s400/6.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Turn right side out again. You make have to pull and push a bit to get all the layers back where they belong but when you have done that, this is the result!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I'm really glad I learned this trick and I hope it will be useful to some of you as well. </span>Laurianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16602295642057814667noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7553172421381359137.post-71090436577251531942017-07-23T21:30:00.001+02:002017-07-23T21:30:42.168+02:00Well suited<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">A few weeks ago, with the last classes taught and just some meetings left to wrap up the school year, I was looking for another sewing project. And still, I felt a bit tired and didn't quite feel up to doing everything myself (something which I usually enjoy...).</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">After my little adventure with the Thai fisherman pants it was time for something more girly. A dress. So, I had a look at all the pretty dresses from <a href="http://www.studiofaro.com/well-suited" target="_blank">Studio Faro</a>'s pattern puzzles (I still miss the weekly Pattern Puzzle, even though the timing was a bit unpractical for me. It was like a regular meeting for pattern making geeks!) and quickly decided to go for one in jersey.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">That still left a couple of options but I decided to go with this one:</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6ofYgFMSzoABHk04JdXh_-QttFI_CEirWyOkh32dsbsULmCVzTf6zFnDxfrxcpKV4pZUSiVsngCZh69SSWyLXoKsfZRQd6N6dIk3ElYUalZ3wf4XAtg875OMJAkfQ8R3IAZEGcX67hhI8/s1600/JERSEY+RUCH+DRESS_sketchwm_med.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="787" data-original-width="773" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6ofYgFMSzoABHk04JdXh_-QttFI_CEirWyOkh32dsbsULmCVzTf6zFnDxfrxcpKV4pZUSiVsngCZh69SSWyLXoKsfZRQd6N6dIk3ElYUalZ3wf4XAtg875OMJAkfQ8R3IAZEGcX67hhI8/s320/JERSEY+RUCH+DRESS_sketchwm_med.jpg" width="314" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">It is from 2014 and can, for that reason, only be found </span><a href="https://studiofaro-wellsuited.blogspot.nl/2014/02/pattern-puzzle-jersey-ruch-dress.html" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;" target="_blank">on the old blog</a><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">. But fortunately, it's still there! </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">For those of you who are not familiar with Studio Faro: it is (as far as I can tell from the blog posts and site info) a one-woman company in Australia specializing in both pattern making for fashion companies and pattern making lessons for fashion students and enthusiastic amateurs. For years, she also ran the "Pattern Puzzle" on the Studio Faro Facebook page. This meant that she would post a picture of random pattern pieces and readers would guess what it was. I found that quite addictive, and I know I'm not the only one...</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPW8zo_tDk-aHWWD8zTKbvSGUBYln3ncsbogdoiRNL56MJRqN6C_VJShlN7tR3V6KYrmAbaC-2IHKsNJdLpYUjNWdYv1nzMb0fvtn5AAj3KK7ntShgwiV5zycMem4-2eqwHsYK1nDUs9nW/s1600/voor1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPW8zo_tDk-aHWWD8zTKbvSGUBYln3ncsbogdoiRNL56MJRqN6C_VJShlN7tR3V6KYrmAbaC-2IHKsNJdLpYUjNWdYv1nzMb0fvtn5AAj3KK7ntShgwiV5zycMem4-2eqwHsYK1nDUs9nW/s400/voor1.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">And if that wasn't enough, in the week following the Pattern Puzzle, there would be a blog post showing the design and describing how to create the pattern from your own slopers. There is just one catch: these tend to be designs, ideas, experiments, not tried-and-tested projects. So there is no guarantee each one will work out well. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">If, like me, you are used to drafting your own patterns, that will be familiar territory though.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid0-62AX5hAbmfKuy10RGRB1z65xa_ds5959eruay1Il53PE_24e4qCG__IzjdoZ19fm2vcYJAvbypGHD3MGc240FME77dKtLrav7z-sbKmkI8nHcdi4xisWWhCIRzL3K5Iyo0IAMRY-NI/s1600/voor3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid0-62AX5hAbmfKuy10RGRB1z65xa_ds5959eruay1Il53PE_24e4qCG__IzjdoZ19fm2vcYJAvbypGHD3MGc240FME77dKtLrav7z-sbKmkI8nHcdi4xisWWhCIRzL3K5Iyo0IAMRY-NI/s400/voor3.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0nuNn8FnqTi9i7DdndhKxbr9EOR1LleTPLaa6T47CfWZ_YQAeYBnUImMy7GvEUKLqg6k77Tj5GTayTr2fketlDrxepGrPWtaCLHq4Edzj6fExlfF7VKa8tSykF6ZFWyKh_eD8-9-gpTxN/s1600/zij-achter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0nuNn8FnqTi9i7DdndhKxbr9EOR1LleTPLaa6T47CfWZ_YQAeYBnUImMy7GvEUKLqg6k77Tj5GTayTr2fketlDrxepGrPWtaCLHq4Edzj6fExlfF7VKa8tSykF6ZFWyKh_eD8-9-gpTxN/s400/zij-achter.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Anyway, I went to work on the Jersey Ruche Dress. An interesting design idea in which you slash and spread the front and back pieces of the fitted dress block for jersey fabrics in such a way that you can line them up to form one big pattern piece. There will just be a line of gathering where a side seam would have been (the smooth side has the one remaining side seam). And there is a set-in sleeve at the side with the shoulder gathers and a kind of raglan sleeve at the other side.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">This time, I didn't try to be clever and drafted the pattern according to the instructions. I just had to fudge a bit with the main piece because my jersey block probably has a bigger waist-to-hip ratio that usual. And I planned for short sleeves instead of long ones.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6SnvIiiP9fflDep8MrLyzNsKU1Do-vOKcZA_WhagbgfDyVTG74XNoow7KQiq1TB9NCCiDj1g-LxWTSB0LKFfGIaGomcvCa9IoTX0b4VXJp0HETD_fogPVp4nDXShm0NQgxAYMqm-sBdYm/s1600/zij.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6SnvIiiP9fflDep8MrLyzNsKU1Do-vOKcZA_WhagbgfDyVTG74XNoow7KQiq1TB9NCCiDj1g-LxWTSB0LKFfGIaGomcvCa9IoTX0b4VXJp0HETD_fogPVp4nDXShm0NQgxAYMqm-sBdYm/s400/zij.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Choosing a fabric wasn't that easy. I wanted to use something from my stash (should always be possible, it is huge). The pattern pieces were less big than I had feared (some of these pattern puzzles and really terrible when it comes to fabric economy, again because they are just design ideas) but not every fabric would work for a design like this. It would have to have the right hand, be soft and drape well. That means cotton was out. Cotton jerseys are lovely but they tend to have a bit of 'body', a stiffness which would not work here. And the fabric had to be light and thin enough for all those gathers. Some viscose/rayon jerseys, although they drape wonderfully, can be really heavy and get bulky when gathered. Stretch and recovery were less important in this case (although don't want to use one of those knits which only every keep on growing, ever again)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">But I had something in my stash which was certainly thin enough, but maybe a bit too thin. A sort of marled grey/green jersey. A mystery blend containing (probably among other things) viscose and a tiny bit of wool. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghvzD4oJN5BUN_gqY-_NURgbveyIjun2mlpyhVQy6tFkRUU2m8lZqk7FeabMeL_7Vu8lBh2e0yx56O1xj9lYf29_blc38jmMXrnod2AJkCuA29ib6-DVy6Hnqc3tZp__-pS7Pg0FELhirH/s1600/achter2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghvzD4oJN5BUN_gqY-_NURgbveyIjun2mlpyhVQy6tFkRUU2m8lZqk7FeabMeL_7Vu8lBh2e0yx56O1xj9lYf29_blc38jmMXrnod2AJkCuA29ib6-DVy6Hnqc3tZp__-pS7Pg0FELhirH/s400/achter2.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">This fabric works really well with those gathers but it is a bit transparant. I picked those pictures in which it doesn't really show. It did in some of those I didn't choose. So, I guess this will be an indoor dress (I often like to slip on a comfortable dress when I come home from work, so having one which is only suitable for that purpose is fine with me). I thought about making a full lining but that felt like more trouble than this dress was worth. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I did make a sort of all-in-one facing which holds the neckline and armscyes together. I decided on that after I had sewn the outside pieces. The neckline moved around in a way I didn't like: the gathers at front and back crept up and there was also kind of issue with the raglan sleeve (I forgot what that was). I made the facing for those pieces without the gathers and stabilized it with some very light-weight knit interfacing. Sewing that in helped. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUDDewcgoIzANSI1ZXouqWiCnZK5pcs-L4FD9hOeEhRO9LNzTR-8ZXzw7V4l6A9d6TrCvaiXXh7T2GSfWETB64TvkpaRMA1dqjPxz0ARr_KQr7WyrLR96glE_BMRD1Ayl8eGcKqhcnl0Cc/s1600/achter1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1075" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUDDewcgoIzANSI1ZXouqWiCnZK5pcs-L4FD9hOeEhRO9LNzTR-8ZXzw7V4l6A9d6TrCvaiXXh7T2GSfWETB64TvkpaRMA1dqjPxz0ARr_KQr7WyrLR96glE_BMRD1Ayl8eGcKqhcnl0Cc/s400/achter1.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I still wonder if it would have been better to cut the neckline a little lower, or to put in denser gathering. I don't know.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Oh, and I used the rolled hem setting on my serger to hem the dress. That is often the easiest options on very flared-out hemlines, especially in thin fabrics. I had to be careful with the tension: It still had to be stretchy but I didn't want one of those "lettuce edge" hems (which are just serged rolled hems on very stretched-out edges). The result is OK but it looks like the edge of stitching is pulling a little bit if the light falls on it in a certain way. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">All in all, it's not one of my best dresses but certainly not one of the worst either. And it was fun to make, the right kind of project for the time in which I made it. </span>Laurianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16602295642057814667noreply@blogger.com2