A dress for the pinstripe - almost done

My thanks to everyone who gave their opinion on my previous post about this! Unfortunately for the later commenters, I had already cut this by then...

N.'s comment on how this would work as a feminine version of 'the suit' was particularly convincing.

And you are all absolutely right, of course: there's no way black pinstripe would ever end up looking 'milkmaid'. (although, Darci, I definately look like I'm on my way to check up on the cows with my hair in Heidi braids. I tried once, using Gertie's tutorial and my boyfriend thought he'd die laughing...)

I enjoyed drafting a 'serious' collar again. For a (learning) pattern maker, serious collars are those which are usually cut with the garment and require the application of mathematics to make them fall the way they should. Most of the time, this applies to shawl and notched collars.

I think the collar and neckline of this dress go a long way to avoid the not-so-sexy-librarian look (in fact, I wouldn't mind being an actual librarian, but hey, I didn't invent the fashion-lingo).

The dress has a drop waist darted bodice, a back shoulder yoke, that collar, three quarter length sleeves, a side seam zipper, a half circle skirt with the seams at center front and back, and a decorative 'waistband'. The close-up shows a bit more of how I used the stripes. It's unlined and, for now, still unhemmed. I'll leave it to hang for, at the very least, 24 hours and hem then, to avoid bias-stretch issues. Even though I don't think this fabric will stretch that much on the bias, I'm rather safe than sorry (to have to do double work).

If you were hoping to see me make the LV-version, don't be too disappointed: I'm still planning to try and make that top from the pinstripe scraps and I may just be tempted to make that whole dress design in blue cotton.

A dress for the pinstripe?

This week, I really wanted to make myself a dress in this infamous pinstripe fabric. I gave up the idea of making trousers from it a long time ago. You gave me too many appealing suggestions for dresses.

I thought I had finally cracked it.

Something like this. Practical, wearable if weather starts to cool down a bit more and with just a nice touch of vintage-style... and loads of opportunity to play with the direction of the stripes.

It was to get a half circle skirt with the seams at center front and back, forming chevrons. I originally planned for the front view on the left but while working on the pattern, I thought the collar on the right might work better.

I took a bit of ease out of my (standard ease included) sloper and made a quick bodice muslin to check the fit, the length of the dropped waistline and, crucially, whether or not I could get in and out of it with just a zipper in the bodice side seam.

And what do you think? It's rather nice isn't it? Quite suitable for a subtle stripe. Unfortunately, I think a fair amount of its nice-ness is down to the fact that the drabby lilac of this fabric actually suits my coloration rather well. Gentle and almost sophisticated. Now imagine the same shape in that pinstripe fabric, which besides being mainly black, has a bit of sheen and a very different, much sharper hand... Hm...

I have another option, inspired both by my shelf-bust dress and by the autumn winter fashion show looks (Louis Vuiton anyone?)

I could easily adapt the bodice of the other dress and in this design, I could in fact make use of the slight bit of stretch in this fabric (although that would bring up the question of lining). I might make a band of about 15 cm wide at the bottom of the skirt with the stripes running horizontally and of course, I could wear it, like the ones in the LV show, with a cardigan for autumn.

Only questions: would that be too much of a rip-off and/or would the effect be too 'milk-maid'-like?

Could you help me make up my mind?

Those stripes again

After the disappointment with the pinstripe linen dress, I still had substantial bits of fabric left over. I originally bought 3 m of each and used just under 1.5 m each on the dress.

I made these trousers using mostly the wide stripes. If you're interested: this was one of my original ideas for the other pinstripe fabric, blogged about here.

(please don't pay attention to the look on my face in this picture, I must have been blinking when I took it, and this time, I didn't take enough other ones)

I'm happy with the trousers. The fit is good and they incorporate some of my geeky patternmaking pet-likes... Look:

No sideseam for most of the leg. And one continuous curve along back yoke and front pocket.

No center back seam on the smoothly curved yoke. And no waistband.

And to make that all work, an extended fly flap which buttons on the inside of the waist facing.

Yes! I love making patterns they just wouldn't sell (for this one, the reason would be fabric use: for my size and using a 1.5 m wide fabric, the leg part can only just be cut from folded fabric)

Guess what I bought?

My earlier posts, here, here and here, must, by now, have convinced all of you of my hatred for the pinstripe. So, let me please show you my most recent fabric purchase...

Pinstripe. Black and white, two different widths, in linen.

What possessed me to buy this stuff, you were wondering? Especially since I still haven't started to make anything from that other pinstripe fabric?

Well, just for starters, this stuff was only 1 euro/meter. The width of the fabric is normal, so that makes it cheaper than anything I would normally buy to make muslins.

Secondly, did I whine enough about how that glossy sheen is what really makes the pinstripe look cheap and nasty in the other fabric? This is linen. Matte and with a fairly rough, textured weave. Ok, the wide stripes may look a bit questionable none the less, but the narrow ones...

Which brings me to my third point: the narrow stripes are actually so close together that it doesn't look like 'cliche pinstripe' anymore. I will make a shirt for E out of this. He already saw it and thinks it would work (E seems to be getting more adventurous in the way he dresses, now that he's over thirty. Especially when it comes to colour. Just don't say I said that...)

Ok, reason number four: I've had the most amazing suggestions on what to do with pinstripe fabric. Too many for what I had. And some of them needed a fabric with a different hand. Like these ones. These will drape quite differently when cut on the bias, for example. Unlike my original pinstripe fabric.

And, finally, closely connected to the previous, I sometimes stumble across such great things as this on the wild, wide waves of the internet (this comes from the website of a vintage pattern seller, but I forgot which one. If you know, just leave a comment and I'll give it proper credit). Now, be honest, don't you think that would rock in mob-tastic pinstripe linen?

Still processing

Wow, so much great advice on what to do with stripes! I loved the suggestions of chevrons and advanced playing with the direction of the stripes. It made me think back of this.

It's a 1950's couture copy suit jacket which was in the exhibition 'Voici Paris' at the Gemeentemuseum earlier this year. A wool suit, daywear and fairly stern and simple, it was passed by by most of the visitors in favor of the spectacle of the many evening dresses. I, on the other hand, was, true to form, immediately obsessing over this amazing cutting, darting and matching detail.

Now, before anybody gives me the advice to make something like that, I'd love to, but not in the fabric I'm dealing with right now. I'd like to have a wool fabric when trying to pull off such an elaborate design. Way easier to manipulate. In fact, I don't think I would object to pinstripes in wool fabrics at all. Well, to some, but they can be so lovely and subtle in wool. My cotton fabric is almost glossy, which creates a big risk of looking tacky.

I'll be mulling over all the ideas and suggestions for a while longer but I will set this deadline: before mid August I have to make something of this fabric.