by Creative Mama in her comment to my latest post.
She wants to know how to draft that pleat I used for my skirt because, wait for it... She wants to get back to wearing skirts!
Now, I need to make one thing clear: I don't grant all requests. Not because I'm nastly but mainly because, in many cases, it's not as simple as it seems. That's why I do tutorials for jersey tops, but not for trousers.
However, this is a very simple request to grant AND for a good cause.
Dear Creative Mama, if you've done any pattern drafting yourself, you probably have a skirt sloper (when I learnt pattern making, everyone had to start with that, even if you not planning on ever making a skirt). If you don't, you can use any normal pattern for a straight skirt. I' going to give the instructions for a pattern without seam allowance.
On your sloper or pattern, the back piece will look like this:
If it has added width for a back vent, remove it.
Make sure the pattern is at the length you want.
Determine how deep you want your pleat to be. In the finished product there will be two double pleats on top of each other, behind the center back seam. So the added room for movement will be pleat depth times eight. My pleats are 5 cm deep.
The pattern for the pleating looks like this:
The dotted lines will be the fold lines. There's 5 cm between each of those in my pattern.
When you are sewing the skirt, simply start by sewing the center back seams of pleat and skirt above the pleat.
Then, press the pleats, matching the diagonal lines at the top.
Stitch the tops together, ending at the center back seam.
To save fabric or to use a contrasting colour in the pleat, you can also cut the pleat section seperately. In that case, just take care to keep the seam, joining it to the skirt, out of sight.
It is important to pick a fabric which can be pressed well or you could (which I don't like, but it is an option) narrowly topstitch each pleated edge to keep it in shape.
I hope this is clear to you. Just let me know if there are any more questions. Or suggestions. Or other requests. Or thanks ;)