January 6, 2013

Another coat to reveal!

This morning, I finished E's new coat (I guess I could have done it last night, but Downton Abbey was on).
I had sort of planned to do a photoshoot like the one for my blue redingote, but mister wouldn't play along... So, regular indoor pictures to the rescue ;)

I think I've already explained some of my thinking behind this design. I wanted to make this a somewhat classic coat but one which would still work with E's casual dress sense. This is why the back isn't that fitted: he needs to be able to move around in this thing, it's not purely a show-piece.
I think I made three muslins to get the pattern right (self-drafted of course, based on a casual jacket block made years ago), dealing mostly with the width in the lower half and drag lines at the shoulder. 
On the real coat, I used horsehair interfacing in the upper front panel, all facings, the collar and along the black vent (I paid close attention to the vent in the muslin stage: I think it's such a bad look when a vent is permanently gaping). I also used a type of shoulder pads made from layers of thin foam and I put half of a third one on the right shoulder pad. I'm really pleased with how that turned out: no drag lines, even shoulders and no excessively heavy-shouldered look. 
And I made bound buttonholes, as I've shown you before
This weekend, I bagged the lining and sewed the hem facings in place, by hand on from the inside, after attaching the lining (I'm just mentioning this because apperently, it's not a standard construction order and it can potentially save quite a bit of hand-sewing). 
Then, I attached the backs of the buttonholes and sewed on the buttons and a snap on the inside.

Here are even some phone pictures of E wearing the coat, walking in a local shopping street:

All in all, I'm rather pleased with this coat. I think it looks quite good on him. 
The outer lower lapel will, despite the padstitching, not lay really flat that easily, but I think that was to be expected with such a heavy material. It may get more obedient with wear... 
And I hope I can discourage E in his unfortunate habit to pull the sides of the coat up to stick his hands into his trouser pockets.


  1. fantastic coat, what a great shape. love the button front. I know how much work is in a coat like that but it will be worn for years.

  2. Wonderful coat, I think you've done an amazing job. Have yet to tackle a proper coat and have great respect for those that do.

  3. It looks great! Hopefully he brought you to some fantastic restaurant to celebrate... ;-)

    The fit is perfect as one would expect with a woman of your skills. Great job!

    1. Thanks!
      And no, we didn't go to a restaurant but he did but me a a pair of very cool shoes ;)

  4. Beautiful! great shoulders. and I love a good high-crossing double-breast. A good pair of gloves might keep him from putting his hands in his pants pockets. (or a muff! ha!)

  5. Super cool coat and beautiful attention to detail.

  6. the coat looks great! very streamline and a great length for him.

  7. Fabulous coat! Great style and an amazing finish. He must be thrilled to wear it!

  8. What a great coat! He is a lucky man and should be smiling!!

  9. It really suits him! Lucky man :-)

  10. Excellent job. Looks great on him. well done for the hard work