Thank you so much for your comments on the jacket progress so far! Sherry, you mentioned the overall balance... Yeah, I noticed that seemed a bit 'off'. And I'm trying to fix it.
The book I started out with, however, wasn't Winifred Aldrich's. I'm mostly using that for details. The block came from my Dutch pattern making book, 'Grondvormen'. Which is great in that it's a very in-depth method and great for creating an understanding into how patterns work but less than great in that it was written in the mid-80's and can to have ease to match. It certainly did in the jacket block.
For this next muslin, I've gone back to the block. If I am to take width out of the tops of the side seams, it will affect to armscye, so I thought I'd better sort that out without have any fancy sleeves in place. I also wasn't to happy about all kind of details of the collar and hem shaping. And, many most of all, I want the block to work. I want to be able to use it as a base for any future jackets.
I've also switched to another muslin-making material. This was some cheap fabric which has a hand similar to real muslin. Probably better than the very soft flannel.
I think improvement has been made. I want to see if I can sort out that dent in the upper back and I will lower the armscye by 0.5 cm because it feels just a bit snug. Other than that, it will be all about the styling.
At least, that's what I was thinking, please correct me if I'm wrong.
Oh, and one other question for the fellow pattern makers out there: if I try to make a deep neckline to my jacket, like I've pinned it in this picture, it seems like the upper front looses some of it's integrity. Which, in a way, makes sense because it's no longer held in place that much. And yet, there are many examples, both in patterns and in RTW, of such deep necklines. Is something which will sort itself out with the added shape of the collar? Or with the use of the appropriate stabilizers on both collar and jacket front? Or is there some kind of fix? Which is not in the books but gets passed on in the trade?
Once again I have no expertise to add, but about the front---I know when lowering a neckline in a shirt one will often take a tuck in the neckline so it doesn't gape, I wonder if something similar might apply to low-opening jackets? Alternatively perhaps the interfacing/tailoring will take care of the problem. Good luck, you are getting there!
ReplyDeleteI'd do just what tanitisis suggested - tuck the neckline a bit and transfer it to a dart. It changes the angle of the break line though so if you've done your collar draft you'll need re-do it. But it will also help the jacket to sit nicely when unbuttoned, which I think was one of the things you were after!
ReplyDeleteYou can ease the roll line with tape or fusing, but I've had varied success with this and have been happier with my results when doing the above.
All your efforts will be rewarded - I spent ages perfecting my jacket block, but in the end I was really happy with it and it served me well for many years. Unfortunately it's a standard size 10 and no longer fits me!
wow....beautiful!
ReplyDeleteThank you. I had been thinking about the 'added dart to the neckline' solution, but since I've never found any reference to it in any kind of sewing or drafting information, I was really curious about other people's experiences. I'm going to try that now.
ReplyDeleteAnd Sherry, I was going to re-do the collar anyway so that won't be a problem.
Such an improved fit! Wonderful job!
ReplyDeleteTo my eye, your sleeves should be a smidge higher up on the shoulder. That may be where some of that extra material from the back is coming from.
If I was home I'd look up the neckline dart for you in my pattern making book. I do remember it's a small dart (like an 1/8" on either side of a center line). I think interfacing, interlining and a facing will do wonders with the shape of the lapels.