September 9, 2013

Autumn/Winter 13/14

Over the years in which I have been sewing a lot of what I wear, certain rules have emerged. One of them is: No autumn sewing plans or blogging before my summer holiday. More than just a rule, it's a matter of mind-set. Although I would never class myself as a summer-person, I just can't bear the thought of the cold end of the year without having had a chance to celebrate summer...

As a result of the idiosyncrasies of my job (most people get married in summer, with June being the most popular month), I tend to go on holiday rather late in the season. When I left for Austria two weeks ago, stores were already being filled with autumn clothes.
Now that I'm back (after two weeks of hiking, rafting and visiting caves an castles) I feel ready to take a good look at those. And I'm already dreaming of all those things I'd like to make in the months to come.

Let's talk collections first. Strangely, I don't think I've read posts about those on any other sewing blog yet. Apparently, this season hasn't produced a "must copy" item.
I don't always look at the high fashion stuff, but when I do, it's much more often in autumn than in spring (as in autumn collections, which are, of course, actually presented in spring although fashion magazines will only discuss them at the start of the season they are for). I guess that has something to do with my love for tailoring, wool fabrics and rich, dark colours.

I generally prefer to look at collections on paper, in a magazine but this time I went to which makes it easier to share some of the things I like.
I will confess immediately to only looking at a few collections. Just stuff I had read about in a magazine and some brands I often like the look of.

First up: Did you hear about the sort-of tribute collection Christian Lacroix made for the house Schiaparelli? They're going to have another designer do that each season from now on. 
The collection has a lot of the usual suspects: Long-haired fur, lobsters, shocking pink. And yet, it does manage to look like Lacroix and Schiaparelli at the same time. 
This green dress was the only item I really liked.

Then, Dutch Vogue was very positive about Prada. They even drew some sort of comparison to the New Look. Why? I have no idea. If you ask me, the collection is fine but they've done much more striking stuff in recent years. 
There was some inspiration for my own sewing sewing though.

Like these jackets: High neckline separating zipper, and a colour contrast. In the first picture, it looks like patch pockets, in the second one like a wide rib knit band. It's probably the latter, but I like the first idea for green tweed in my stash (I already made a much-worn jacket from it. It's too heavy for a dress or skirt and I don't want re-do the same look in the same fabric). How about moss green tweed with deep yellow pockets? Red or bright turquoise would be nice too, but I don't have wool fabric in those colors in my stash.

And then there was this neckline on a couple of tops and dresses. A boat neck with a center front closure with big buttons. Feminine and tough at the same time. I quite fancy this look for a big-skirted 1950's style dress in a warm winter fabric.

Then, I took a look at Dior. 
Of course, they days of the old master are gone forever...
But I have to say I also kind of miss the spectacle of the Galliano years...

There are some nods to the classic looks of the brand.

I especially like the suit.

But this outfit was part of the same show. I don't really get that. And I personally wasn't a fan of the painted-on shoes (I read the review, I know it was a reference to Warhol).

And then something completely different: I rather like the work of Haider Ackermann. Have done so for a couple of years. 

There's always such strength to his collections. And no matter how much I love skirts, there's something refreshing about a high-fashion collection made up almost entirely of bifurcated outfits.
Of course, most of his looks are quite draped and layered so they have very little in common with my personal esthetic. 

That said, I would wear this outfit. In fact, I've made garment in the past which could add up to a sort of light-version of this look.

And is he doing jumpsuits in different shapes? I can't really tell from the pictures the outfits are pretty cool. 

These were my picks from the AW 13/14 collections so far. They may or may not end up having some impact on my sewing plans for the coming season. Do you ever look at runway collections for sewing inspiration? And which are your favorites?


  1. Thanks for sharing these-they're very cool. Oh gwad I love that olive jumpsuit. I wanna make one like that so bad but I haven't come across any proper patterns for it and don't have the time for titting around with drafting and fitting XD Yea I love the Haider Ackermann silhouettes too. I love the whole masculine, androgynous yet voluminous fit. Must start sewing stuff like that up for winter.. I've got a knipmode pattern for trousers like that..

  2. Not a fall collection I'm in love with right now (resort 2013), though they could be. I'm currently drooling over these two in particular from Alexis Mabille. They're girlier than I would wear myself, but the lines are beautiful. I think I like almost everything from this particular set.

  3. I love that Prada boatneck dress, I may copycat it this Autumn. *^v^*

  4. Lovely post! I'm not really drooling over any of the collections this year, which is surprising. Neither the detailing or the finished products were particularly inspiring to me. However, since autumn is a great excuse to start sewing with tweed and corduroy,I'm pretty happy :)