September 30, 2015

Corsetry light

Ok, I suppose I should start this post with a bit of an update: 
- The commissioned slopers have been fitted. At least, without sleeves. I wasn't disappointed. The shoulders on the woven one were a bit too long but not in a crazy way and the waist could be taken in a little bit at the side seams. On the knit sloper, I have to move the shoulder seam a bit forward and take out some excess fabric at center back. Oh, and Prior Patterns, your comment about flattering styles for that particular body shape was spot on.
- And those jeans... Well, I was a bit over-confident there. I may not be very tall but 1.10 meter is only enough for cropped designs for me. As a result, I suppose both real culottes and flares are out of the question. I may have to buy some more denim and I will be looking at ankle length 1940's and 50's styles for this piece of fabric.

For now, I have allowed myself to get distracted.
I have wanted to make a lingerie corset for a while. I don't think I really need shape wear but I find it a rather interesting bit of sewing and pattern making.  And it would perfect some 1950's looks. 
So, I have finally started to make one. 

I used the pattern I made for my the bodice of my strapless party dress as a starting point. 

And I had a look at a RTW lingerie corset. This type of corset is often sold at bridal stores here in the Netherlands (I got mine from the store I used to do alterations for). Although I usually wear 75B in RTW bras, the low back of this style allowed me to go for the 70C instead. Which is a good thing because it is still a bit loose at the waist. It allows me to study the construction though. 

I split the front into three panels instead of two and narrowed the side back to allow for some more width in the only stretchy panel, the center back. In the real corset, the other panels with be made from non-stretch net covered with black lace, maybe alternated with panels covered with solid fabric. 
I'm going to use spiral steel boning and bra cups made from padding (cut-and-sew foam) with underwires.

I made a test version. It's not bad, just a bit too loose. And, because of those 1950's looks, I would like a bit more emphasis on the waistline. So, I think I will make a few alterations and then start cutting the real thing.


  1. Haha, good to know. :) I also find "tailored" peasant style tops also look pretty good. Something like this: Puff sleeves and front of shoulder gathers are also nice- they disguise how big the actual shoulder is.

  2. dries van norton has featured some colour block hems in last show, could work for your denim?

    1. It's funny what autocorrect made of "Dries van Noten" (on my computer it doesn't because "noten" is a perfectly normal Dutch word meaning "nuts". Nuts as in seeds you can eat, not as in crazy, by the way ;)
      I am familiar with this Belgian designer. In fact, I think he often produces very interesting collections, but I hadn't seen this one yet. I like the detail you linked to but I think it works there because it's a whimsical detail on a classy, fairly formal style. On those flares I was planning, the effect might be a bit too 1970's hippy. There's nothing wrong with that, but it just isn't me. Although I think I have some raw silk in that exact hot pink colour...