September 19, 2011

The man's jacket

Here it is: E's finished jacket. He has been wearing it for a few days now and says he's happy with it (in case you are wondering about the trousers: he usually wears black jeans, but now, for the weekend, he was in the leaf-green bermudas I made him last year and it's already quite something to get him to pose in his new clothes). It is funny to see him struggle into it, though. Because this thing is shaped like a proper men's jacket, it has higher and narrower sleeve heads than he's used to (from shirts and casual jackets) and it's unlined so it doesn't slide easily over his shirt.

I think I already told you the basic facts about this jacket: it's made from black cotton twill, in the shape of a traditional men's jacket. I used flat-felled seams where I could and bias binding everywhere else. It has patch pockets which have slanted openings to the side and at one side a hidden inside pocket.

I drafted the pattern myself, with fairly extensive muslin fitting. From the back view here, you may think that there's too much room in the back but trust me, he really couldn't do without that space for movement...

By now you've probably noticed the fitting issue which is still annoying me: there is a rather obvious line pulling from the neckline to the armpit. It wasn't like that in the muslin. And what's more: I think I know why. I didn't make a muslin with the fully constructed collar on. The back neckline of the muslin, with it's clipped seam allowances, must have stretched out making it wider than the finished neckline-with-collar... And E has an unusually thick neck (one of the reasons I started drafting patterns for him in the first place).
I thought about tweaking the fit but that would mean deconstructing flat felled seams, the collar and maybe even taking the sleeves out. And even then, the real solution here would be adding extra width, which just isn't there. So, I guess I'll have to file this one under 'wearable muslin' or 'will do better next time', all the while telling myself that I would very likely have had the same issue if I had used a commercial pattern and that I would have been able to hide it a lot better in a formal lined, interlined and backed wool jacket...


  1. It looks great! And very smart. My boy has something similar with the neck... and it is hard to catch in the fitting stage if you don't have the final collar attached.

  2. Really great jacket-I'd be proud to have made that myself. A bit of inspiration for me to try something. I've bookmarked your blog now. Thanks.

  3. Love this jacket and he looks very handsome in it. My husband has this same exact pulling in his store clothes (shirts, jackets, even t-shirts) as well--he has a larger neck for his size. This happened in a vest I made him and I couldn't figure out the issue at the time but your post gave me an idea... I looked at his other vests and they all get stretched and sometimes torn at the center back neckline.

  4. omg that is coool! I'm thinking about making a man's jacket too but still too scared... ;)

    Really nice i found your blog! Def gonna follow you!~