April 18, 2015

Dressing like a proper lady?

The jacket is finished and I like it. The skirt is largely finished but with this shifty fabric, it's absolutely essential to let it hang out before hemming. 

I wasn't really happy when I tried it on yesterday. I cut the skirt with center front on the fold and a seam with a zipper at center back. And slant pockets at the sides. Normally, that works very well but in this fabric, even after pressing, the side seams sort of fold in on themselves, making the skirt looks a look narrower (putting a petticoat under it makes the width show more but somehow isn't a good look either). I'm not panicking yet. Hemming always affects the drape of a skirt and usually, in full skirts, makes them stand out more. I plan on using a lightly interfaced hem facing for extra effect. 

While I'm waiting for that, I suddenly thought it would be nice to make a matching hat for this suit. I have black hats which might suit the style but one in the same fabric would be even better. And I've wanted to try and make hats for a while. 
In fact, the pattern I'm using now has been in my stash since well before I started taking pattern making lessons. It's Vogue V8008, a selection of hats which have a clear 1950's retro flavour (despite the fact that this is not officially a vintage reproduction pattern). I've tried the pill box shape a short time after I bought it but didn't like it then. I didn't keep that version so I don't know if it was down to the material I used, taste or some real flaw.

The annoying thing about this pattern is that all the designs are meant to be made in felt. Which, obviously has very different properties than normal fabric. I've decided to try out view C (the red one) anyway, using the suit fabric reinforced with some woven cotton interfacing. 
I've been tinkering with it for most of the afternoon. The pattern is simple enough: Four petal shaped pieces, with slightly longer curves on the side ones than on front and back. The interfaced pieces are nice and stable and keep their shape well. However, the hat in the picture encloses the lady's head neatly. When I first tried this thing on, all the sides were standing out. I've been going back and forth adjusting the shape to try and get a nice looking fit. In the process, I may just have changed the whole thing. Especially because I decided I don't like the look of this hat when tilted forward like in the picture. Not with my glasses and bangs. So, I'm shaping it to sit more at the back of the hat which kind of works against one of my motivations for making it in the first place. I want a hat that will work with the up-do's I like. 
I think I will go back to tinkering with it tonight. I'm starting to think I don't really like the petal shape...

When I started working on this, I though the hat might actually allow me to count the suit for the Vintage Sewing Pattern Pledge. It is a retro pattern, even though it's not repro... 
I'll wait and see how much of the pattern I'll end up using. I could always try a pill box after all...


  1. But I wonder the jacket,İt's lost behind the skirt.Thank you for the post,Greetings from Turkiye:):)

    1. The jacket is in the previous post. The long coat behind the skirt is something I found in a second-hand clothing market a while ago. I still have to decide what to do with it because it's too long for me.

  2. I'm interested to see what you finally choose for the hat design! I think it will pull together your vintage outfit nicely