April 27, 2015

That 1950's suit...

Finally! My suit is finished, I've had a haircut, it has stopped raining and E is at home and willing to take pictures: It's time to reveal my new suit.

I've talked about it here before. I drafted my own jacket pattern based on this image, from an issue of Libelle magazine from 1956 and added a half circle skirt which seemed to suit the look. 

Then, I decided to add a hat and after some experimentation with view C, I went with the pillbox which is view D and E from this pattern, V8008.


The jacket isn't heavily tailored. I used a very lightweight fusible (a very thin knit interfacing) throughout, just to give this odd fabric a bit of stability. Making it more rigid would have helped to get that perfect period look but would have seriously compromised wearability. The way it is now, it may crumple when I make big movements but I will be able to make those which means it can work as a real garment, not just an occasional costume.
And because I would like to wear it like some of these vintage suits or two piece dresses were, with not a lot under it, I lined it with thin, smooth cotton rather than with normal lining material. 



The fabric is a bit of an oddity. It looks like tweed, a herringbone weave in black and grey. But it's linen. For that reason, it has some odd properties. Linen, thickish but loosely woven. It's stiff and limp at the same time. In combination with my favorite fusible, it behaves very well. Without it, it's a different matter.  
I'm less than pleased with the way it worked for the skirt. It sort of folds in at the sides, even after hemming. It's wearable but not what I planned. In retrospect, I think I should have cut the skirt in four or even six gores, each with the straight grain along the centers. 

For the hat, I used the same fabric but interfaced it with a mid-weight fusible cotton (although for the bow at the back, I used the same stuff I used in the jacket). I lined it with thin synthetic felt. And to keep it on my head, I used two hairpins put through thread loops at the front sides and one on the back.

All in all, I am quite happy with my suit. And if some element of it ends up annoying me after all, I have enough fabric left to replace it ;)



18 comments:

  1. Amazing! You look fabulous and very 50's!

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  2. Ir has all turned out beautifully! I'm sorry you're not thrilled with the skirt, but it still makes for a striking ensemble. The jacket is especially flattering and looks like it could become a wardrobe staple. I would love to see more detailed photos of your finished hat!

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  3. What fun and fabulous photos and a stunning outfit! Such a lovely graceful silhouette and as always beautifully sewn too :)

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  4. It turned out glorious!! I need a suit more than ever now :D I really like the jacket, it is a really good fit.

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  5. Really lovely- I was just looking through this post and my wife wandered up to look over my shoulder. She thinks you look fabulous too, what a figure! This is a perfect look on you [and we love the shoes!]

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  6. what a fabulous outfit, the jacket is amazing!

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  7. Wow, it's so gorgeous! I can't believe you drafted that jacket yourself. Excellent job!

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  8. that looks perfect and just right to evoke the period. Love it.and what a great fit on the jacket. and a hat! perfection.

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  9. Oh your suit looks positively smashing Lauriana! Beautiful!

    Brigid
    the Middle Sister and Singer
    http://boyerfamilysingersblog.com

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  10. You always look amazing in your self designed vintage clothes! If the skirt is making you trouble, did you think about adding horsehair crinoline to it? In my opinion this could help with the weird folds on the side...

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  11. It is super beautiful! I love the shape of the jacket, it fits you so well and the skirt is simply gorgeous. I'd love to have such a suit but I don't think I can make something that great :)

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  12. It looks great---like so much fun! And what an interesting (odd) fabric. :) I kinda think it would be fascinating to make several different skirts and compare how the fabric behaves, but you may have better uses for it than that. ;)

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  13. Such a gorgeous ensemble! I am amazed that you drafted that jacket, I think it looks stunning, and the hat really was the perfect addition to finish your outfit off. Well done! ❤

    xox,
    bonita of Lavender & Twill

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  14. Really,really perfect job.Ellerinize sağlık.

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