December 16, 2014

Another change of plan

At the moment, dark dreary rainy days and bright and cold ones seem to alternate. Unfortunately, that fact kind of conspired with our social obligations last weekend so I didn't get the chance to take pictures of my new 1918/1922 blouse. It is finished and I like it but I may need to make a different style of skirt to go with it. My high-waisted skirts are all just a bit too eh... 1950's. 

In the mean time, I have been busy and I am getting close to completing my Vintage Pattern Pledge target but I still haven't been working on a Lutterloh project. I'm now officially postponing that till spring (I hope there will be another Vintage Pattern Pledge for next year...). 

You see, although I keep saying I don't need more fabric, it's impossible not buy when it's good stuff at bargain price. Especially at the market. If it's there and it's both good and cheap, there's a good chance it won't be there anymore next week. And the usual reason for good fabric to be sold cheaply is that it is a leftover from somewhere (a production atelier, a fabric store going out of business, you name it) which means there won't be any more once it's gone.

With the excuses out of the way, I can tell you that I found deep red wide wale corduroy at 1 euro a meter. Corduroy can be tricky to sew with and it's fabric which easily looks dated but I liked this stuff. And I immediately remembered a pleated skirt tutorial in one of my 1950's Libelle magazines (and magazine tutorials were also one of the vintage pattern media I wanted to try out this year). So, I bought two meters.

After some searching, I found the tutorial in question. It's actually for the whole outfit: Short jacket and pleated skirt. I'm not making the jacket now. 
The whole tutorial is for size 40 which, according to the Libelle sizing table is one size too big for me but for the skirt, that should not be such a problem. The skirt is quite simple: just a rectangle pleated into a waistband. What is nice about this version is that it alternates deep double pleats with little ones. Eight of each. With that many pleats, it's easy to pinch out 4 cm more. 

With the skirt almost done, I found out that the tutorial also includes instructions on how to make a belt which was rather popular in the winter of 1956/57.
It's not visible in the pictures which go with the tutorial but it is something like this:

This outfit shows a mailorder pattern which was offered in the next issue of the magazine. Pleated skirt, belt and a classic 1950's blouse. In colours close to that of my skirt and of some other fabrics in my stash....

So, now I've decided to try and copy this very look. Of course, it looks like it is made from silk and I'll be using cotton fabrics so it won't be as fancy. Still, it seemed like a nice idea.

I spent some time yesterday evening looking through my 1950's patterns for a blouse which would work for the purpose. Which wasn't that easy. There were many more dresses than separates in any 1950's sewing publication.
And of course, they only printed each pattern in one size, so I had to get lucky with that as well.

I finally found this one, the blouse on the right, in Marion magazine from October 1955. I'll have to change the collar but other than that, it's pretty much spot on. And in my size.

I've just traced the pattern (and I repeat what I've said before: If you complain about modern Burda pattern sheets, don't try these vintage ones). I like the cut of the sleeves: They are kimono sleeves with underarm gussets at the front and set-in sleeves at the back. 
I've measured the pattern pieces for possible issues with back length but that seems to be fine. So, I've decided to just go ahead and cut it out in some blue cotton from my stash. 

So hopefully, I'll have a picture perfect mid-1950's outfit ready for its moment in front of the camera this weekend.

No comments:

Post a Comment