Taking the plunge

Can you guess what I'm making? 
Of course, I'm not really sewing or making patterns on such a full desk. I was drafting a new bra and stopped to check if I still had all the notions I needed. 

I am making a new bra and this time, I've decided to make a new-to-me style.

This is my favorite RTW bra from years ago (with a piece of paper in it, so you can see the shapes of front and back separately). It was H&M's "our perfect racerback" bra and I loved the fit of this so much I had three of them. But then, my breasts grew a cup size and H&M changed the design of this bra and is now only selling it as a push-up. Which I don't like.

I've kept this one so I would be able to study the shape and construction. And I've kept those all nifty little front closures. 

Of course, the old bra had a molded foam cup but I'm making mine from my usual flat sheet foam. I'm using a cup with a diagonal seam and I've lowered the center front of the bra more than ever before. 
Not that I'm too worried about that, so far my me-made bras have all been (much) higher at center front than the RTW ones of vaguely similar style.

I already had these plunge style underwires in my stash. You can see the difference with the normal wire above. These are rather shallow by comparison.

I will use bits of ribbon to connect that closure to the cups and of course, the wings were cut in one. That is the tricky thing with this design: You can't adjust the band size at the last moment. I think I know what I'm doing though.
Oh, and I'm curious to see how that long front edge is going to behave. There is a big chance of gaping there...

I'm making this bra in black lycra with black lace over most of the cups. After taking these pictures, I've cleared the table and started cutting.
Hopefully I can show you the result after the weekend.

P.S. I have several items of clothing to show you but they are still waiting for their photoshoot. Coming up next week!