January 25, 2014

A bit of jeans

Yesterday, I managed to take some pictures of my new pair of jeans. Unfortunately, I must be out of practice when it comes to taking self-timer images: all of those came out blurry.
So, I'll do things differently this time and show you the details of my new jeans in this post and the whole 'look' in a later one. I hope you'll approve ;)

For this pair of jeans, I used fairly coarse black denim and decided to use the wrong side of the fabric for pocket details.

At the front, I made single welt pockets with wide welts which fall over the pocket opening (like you often see on coats). They end in the side seams.

At the back, there are patch pockets which I hemmed to the outside so they also show the wrong side of the fabric. In this picture, you can also see the detail of the points at center back. I really like how that turned out.

As you may have noticed in the pictures above, these trousers don't have a waistband. And I didn't make a normal fly. 
The button closure looks (I thought about making bound buttonholes but didn't feel like all that extra work for what was, after all, just an experiment), on the outside, like the one you would make on a dress. On the inside, I gave it an extra overlap for added security. Waistline and button front facing were, of course cut in one piece and cover the top of the pocket bags.

And this is the unusual shape experiment I mentioned before:

On the left is an old pair of jeans which I made based on my pattern for belt-pleated trousers, on the right is the new pair.
As you can see, with both laid down as flatly as possible, the legs of the new pair are at a much wider angle. This means there is more fabric in the lower hip and inner thigh area. If a pair of trousers has the crotch in its classic place, where the wearer's legs meet, that would be redundant and unflattering. However, there we've seen lots of trendy jeans with a lower hanging crotch these past years and I have made some trousers with a very mild version of that effect. In that case, this change in angle provides some welcome extra room for movement. I'm not sure but I think I have seen men's trendy jeans which must be shaped like this.

Hopefully, I'll manage to take some more pictures tomorrow so I can show you how these jeans look when I wear them.


  1. Awesome jeans!

    I have a question about the leg shape and crotch placement. I'm didn't understand what you were saying, but am very curious about it! Would you mind restating it?

  2. These look really cool and interesting! I like the new shape a lot and the pocket and fly treatment. And especially the shape of the top, with no waistband. Just a little bit of extra room at the crotch sounds like a really excellent idea too… the full-on harem pants are too exaggerated for me, but this looks like a nice and restrained interpretation of the style :)

  3. These are stunning. I love how you did the waistband and button-fly closure. I would really appreciate an in-depth post about how you came up with that and construction if you're so inclined.