So, this week I finally sat down to re-draft my sloper. So far, I still kept using the old ones, making alterations per garment. Which kind of defeats the purpose of having slopers in the first place. Especially because I made those old ones a cup-size and a half ago…
During my wardrobe clean-out, I also ended up throwing out all the items I had made under designer-friend (and pattern making teacher) M's direct supervision. Somehow none of those ever really felt like 'me'. And I remember wondering when she took my measurements for those first slopers. I thought she measured the waist too loose and the hips to high and too tight… And I've been correcting for that more and more over the years.
Now, I started drafting to newly taken measurements and armed with several years of pattern making experience. I used the same basic set-up as before: the Dutch pattern making book Grondvormen.
Interestingly, my new measurements look much more in proportion when converted to a pattern… And when I made muslins today (of bodice and trouser block. I already re-did the skirt one a while ago) I was pleasantly surprised. The bodice only required a tiny tweak to get rid of gaping at the back of the neck. I think the supposedly fitted sleeve is a bit wide but that will in fact work well for most garments, so I'll leave it that way and narrow it if I want a truly fitted sleeve. I know it doesn't look that great in the picture but that's down to the very stiff fabric and my posing while taking the picture in the mirror…
For the trousers, I expected to have to do a fairly substantial flat-butt adjustment, like before. However, only a very small one was required (and not because of changes to my body in that area… I still have enough trousers based on the old sloper to be able to tell that).
I'm happy with the new slopers and I look forward to using them.
I have a sloper book which I recently bought. I would like to start making my own too. Can you explain how you use them once you have them? I'm a little unclear about that process. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteWell done! I've also been re-doing my sloper! You're blog is an inspiration!
ReplyDeleteI drafted my sloper over 2 years ago and it has served me well since. I used a different method than you, and I'd be curious to see how it compares to Grondvormen's.
ReplyDeleteI think your sloper looks great in that picture
ReplyDeleteOh, that's so interesting! I'm so impressed your new slopers fit so well right off the bat--kudos. And hooray for less fitting work and more fabulousness! (Also, great picture! :)
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