I guess when you sew A LOT it just comes with the territory...
Anyway, I drafted shirt and trouser slopers for him a few years ago and use those to create new items. Usually, new shirts don't even make it to the blog anymore (after all, I've made a dozen already...). Even with other items, I often don't bother asking him to pose for pictures. Unless, of course, it's something I really haven't done before, like the coats.
This past week, I made trousers for him. Normally, E lives in Levi's 501, but in summer, those can get too warm and shorts are not all that work-appropriate. So, I set out to make him a pair in a relatively thin and airy fabric. In fact, I bought more of the fabric I used for my jumpsuit for this purpose (and a pair of trousers for me and... eh other things. I bought 5 meters).
As a pattern, I just used the trouser sloper, the fit of which has been fine-tuned over several pairs of shorts (the latest of which I blogged about here last summer). I have some doubts about the slanted pockets I used this time. They seem to gape a bit more than I'd like (they're fine when the trousers are flat on the table, I didn't stretch those edges, in fact, I stabilized them with strips of fusible interfacing. It's really down to his built and posture combined the placement of those pockets). It may help if I just add tacks at top and bottom of the pocket opening. Anyway, it doesn't bother E. He put the trousers on this afternoon because I wanted to take these pictures and he hasn't taken them off yet.
Great pants. I gave up on slant front pockets for myself since they gap no matter what I do. But, I have a very curvy high hip, and that is certainly not his problem!
ReplyDeleteI think they are also gaping because the (fairly flimsy, as you said) material there is close to being on the bias, and so a certain amount of stretching along that edge (and so, gaping) is completely INEVITABLE as you work on it and move the material around as you sew, unless you were to use facings that shrink a bit, and so "draw in" the material just the right amount! (OR, even better: reinforce that edge with iron-on interfacing BEFORE you cut out the material!
ReplyDeleteHim putting his hands in his pockets will no doubt 'aggravate' the gaping as well. So, I wouldn't "sweat it" if I were you. They look and fit GREAT, gape or no gape. (Love his beautiful long hair!)
They look great! And no one else will notice the gaping, though you can of course try to fix it next time.
ReplyDeleteThose pants turned out great! If the pockets bother you, you can always do a patch/cargo pocket or a welt. I do like the angled pocket, they are so useful. You could try sewing a bit of thin cotton twill tape (like what you use for style lines while draping) to the edges. Just cut it a hair shorter than the opening and sew it in like you do on the top of a strapless dress. You already fused (which is what I'd have done too) so it may just be the material.
ReplyDeleteI love the cut of these. I'm actually wanting to work on some basic blocks for my husband. He likes more of a european slim cut like this. Do you mind sharing what book/s you used for his blocks? I have the Aldrich book on menswear cutting--do you think that's a good start for slim-cut trouser?
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