January 17, 2012

Pattern Magic collars

When posting about my sewing plans for 2012, I mentioned wanting to make more garments with Pattern Magic details. Although I won't have much time for sewing this week, I want to make a careful little start on this.

What I want to start with, are shirts with the nice, unusual collar designs from Pattern Magic 1. I've seen the double collar on a blog once, and the curve collar never. This may be because, like Carolyn (link goes to her blog, I can't find the specific post) mentioned, these projects describe the collars only, not full garments. It's not hard to incorporate them in any old shirt pattern though. Or indeed, to draft one using a sloper. Which is what I'll be doing.

These are the designs I have in mind. For both collars, I tried to come up with blouses which, in my opinion, suit their shape and style.

There's something soft and rather Japanese about the curve collar. Which is why I think it will go well with a fairly loose fitting body with three quarter length sleeves (either straight or with some fullness lightly gathered at the bottom). I added a back pleat simply because I like to do something at the back as well. This particular kind of back pleat (stitched up at the bottom) is a common feature in 1930's clothes and will look well with the shirt tucked in. Obviously, the bottom of the pleat could be left open for a more flared shape.

The double collar vaguely reminds me of those rigid Edwardian stock collars. Because of that, I saw it immediately with a fitted and detailed kind of shirt. So: armhole princess seams and a pleated lower back panel. Long sleeves with french cuffs. If you want to go for a real Victorian inspired look, you could make leg-o-mutton sleeves, but I won't this time.

I am going to make both of these shirts. If anyone would like to make something similar, I'm happy to share the drafting process here on my blog. I'm not going to make this a sew-along, so you don't have to want to make this right now. Also, I'm not going to show how to do the collars exactly because I think that might a violation of the Pattern Magic copyright. So, it's basically for anyone who has the Pattern Magic book but doesn't get around to making a 'detail' project like this.
If you're interested, just say so in the comments and tell me which shirt you'd like to see/try first.


  1. I would like to make both these collars too, and I like your plans. The princess seamed shirt is not for me though, but I do like the softness of the other one.
    I don't know if I will be making these just yet, but I will enjoy watching your progress, and following suit as our weather cools down enough for shirt like this to become part of my sewing agenda again!! It is sooo hot here!

  2. I really love the tech drawings for both of these. I think in both cases, you've design the perfect blouse to compliment the PM collars. I can't wait to see the finished shirts.

    (And I'm eagerly awaiting my weekend course in February, which is entirely devoted to the second PM book!)

  3. I'd love to see the double collar. I love your drawings!

  4. I'll be watching with a lot of interest - especially the princess seamed shirt. I'm trying to draft a couple of the Pattern Magic designs myself - but haven't got to the collars yet.

  5. i love the detail of the back pleating on that armhole princess shirt. really fantastic combination of design elements for something tasteful and unique.