July 9, 2014

His pockets

So, I'm finally really sewing again: making that jacket for E. It was about time too, the fabric of his old jackets is pretty much worn out (those were both made from a cotton twill which, in retrospect wasn't such good quality).
I stuck with the design idea I had earlier.

This is my sketch. Pockets at the front, convertible collar, fitted back with a pleat. Vaguely inspired by those 1930's and 1940's sporty men's blazers.

Last weekend, I worked on the pattern. I started out with the casual jacket sloper which I have used for most of E's coats and jackets. I think the thicker wool coats I made from it were great but it was always a bit baggy for a thin summer jacket. This time, I wanted to make it a bit more fitted and yet still give E enough room to move. It should be a jacket he can wear every day.

I'm using the same cotton/linen blend I used for my jumpsuit and I decided not to line this jacket (which kind of means I'll have to make one for in-between weather later on). Because it's going to be unlined, I'm taking care about a neat finish on the inside. I make flat-felled seams wherever possible and use bias tape for seam binding everywhere else. 

This is the back of jacket. Outside...

and in. You clearly can see the wide pleat at center back.
And I don't normally do this, but on this jacket, I've topstitched all the folds in each pleat.

You can see it here, in the bottom pockets. It should keep them from getting too much out of shape.

And I thought I would share the construction of those bottom pockets in a bit more detail.
It's basically a cross between a regular patch pocket and a cargo pocket but less work than the latter.

You start out normally: Finish the top of the pocket and press in the sides. My pockets have pleats in the middle, both for looks and to allow them to expand a bit width-wise.

The position of the finished pocket should be marked on the wrong side of the front piece. 

Put pins through the bottom corners to make them visible on the right side and position the bottom edge of the pocket between them.

Pin down and stitch.

Put pins through the marks for the top corners and turn the pocket up, positioning the top corners at the pins.
You should now have some excess length in the pocket (for this type of pocket, you need the pocket pieces to be about 3 cm longer than for a patch pocket).

Pin the pocket sides from the top down.

When you almost reach seam allowance at the bottom, fold the excess fabric harmonica-like.

Stitch the sides.

And there is the pocket. Just a bit more three-dimensional and spacious than a patch pocket without being much more work.  

At the moment, I really enjoy making this jacket. I may be able to finish it tomorrow and I hope I can persuade E to model it in the weekend.

1 comment:

  1. Thank you for sharing this great pocket technique! Can't wait to see the finished jacket!